§v # ■ ■;& ^ t

^■- -iv (f^'. ^*., .J[t-^ %-^ fs^. ->

fe^ # (!'; -te ^. r^

#;. fe ^-^1 ■%:■ ^

ir- p

w ,'^--.-^^^ , •;:?■■

■•;^- *:<^:- NiWt. ;d,i

*tv ^^ <<% -if ''■'- '■'-'-

«i^/ -^s?, *'^- ^%- mSk i-. 'W' i'i^- ii)': -iii-y k$/^ -t ''

i'-i '^^.. ^,^' ^.W' ^r

> i!^;.:. iiri iil' H' .45v ..^ i:lo. ^i'^ .i'ife :il|. '.;'^; ,

Si 3'i^ :n'4: 4 Sit i% «^

'^'.4 «*. «^: C<^ *'J,. ^4

... *^ i-^. lii^' ...

«>^ 1^. I*:. |^^4■ *V ' '.

■ "H,' *|u; li^, ' ^*% m-- i'

^^i;, ^-l^-- U.-- i*. \4-

^^ ,

^oV"

'> ■<5^ . ^^ ■< ■ay ^rU -^ ^,,. , ^

l^

• .^" ,.. ^^^. *-°' v^

MEN AND TIMES

>-^ ^^

OF

T

THE REVOLUTION

OR,

MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSON,

INCLUDING

|0HnmIs of %xMs h €\\xQp m)j %mtxm,

FROM 1777 TO 184S>,

HIS CORRESPONDENCE WITH PUBLIC MEN iND REMINISCENCES AND INCIDENTS OF THE REVOLUTION,

EDITKD BY HIS SOX,

WINSLOW C. Yv'ATSON.

Neu)-|)ork :

DANA AND COMPANY, PUBLISHERS No. 381 Broadway,

1856.

No, /,

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1856, bj' DANA AND COMPANY,

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Southern District of New-York.

•I" 7

PUDNEY & RUSSELL, PRINTERS, 79 John-Slrjet, N. Y.

U^"

PRETACE.

My father, from the age of nineteen to near the close of his life, which was protracted to more than four-score of years, was in the habit of recording his observations of men and incidents, as the events occurrred to which they relate.

This period embraced the epoch of the War of Independ- ence, and of those amazing mutations which have marked the transformation of dependent colonies into a mighty nation ; and of a rude and .sequestered wilderness into a territory teem- ing with beauty, cultivation and affluence.

In Europe and America he was in the midst of the scenes of this pregnant era, an intimate associate witli many of the individuals who impelled or guided these changes, and a vigi- lant observer of the occurrences connected with their devel- opment.

The journals of my father form a large body of manuscript, which, in connection with a multiplicity of publications on various and most diversified subjects, and a highly extensive correspondence with some of the most eminent men of our annals, comprehend many volumes. These materials consti- tute the elements of the work I now respectfully submit to the public.

I have intended to compress it into as narrow space as practicable ; although the mass of original documents in my possession, is far from having been exhausted by the contents of this publication. In my selections from the correspondence of my father, I have refrained, with a few and special exceptions,

IV PEEFACE.

from the introduction of any letters written by n:ien who are still living.

In 1821, my father revised and compiled a considerable por- tion of his earlier journal, and arianged them in a consolidated form. Several years preceding his death, I had advanced in the preparation of this work, to nearly the period of his return from Europe. This part of it received his careful revision. My labors were, at that point, arrested by feeble health ; but, at his decease, all of his literary papers were confided to me, as his literar}^ executor.

In arranging the narrative of personal incidents, and the correspondence, for publication, I have felt constrained to withhold much of a private and confidential character, although it possesses peculiar intrinsic value and interest. I have been deeply solicitous to avoid not only all appearance, but to escape every suspicion of having violated, in any instance, the sanctity of friendship, or of exposing to the public eye the frank and unguarded communications of confidential intercourse.

A remarkable prescience will be often observed in the writ- ings of my father, when results and effects will appear to have been anticipated with singular sagacity, from existing causes. Many other coincidences of a still more striking character, I have omitted, from an apprehension that the idea might be ex- cited, that the speculations had been recorded after the events occurred, which they profess to foreshadow.

The extraordinary and perilous journey of my father, in the crisis of the Revolution, from Massachusetts to Georgia ; his subsequent expedition from New-England to North Carolina, soon after its termination ; his travels, at a later period, in newly occupied territories ; and his explorations of districts, almost in their primeval condition, opened to him capacious fields of observation and reflection. His journals reflect, during these events, his daily impressions, formed by occurrences as they transpired. They contain a critical exhibition of the state of the country, the aspect of society, the modes of inter- course, the existing prospects, the population and condition of cities and villages, the industrial pursuits, the commerce and

PREFACE. V

internal communications of the country, recorded at the time, and from personal inspection, I think no similar memorial of that period exists.

Presuming that these features of his works would be re- garded with interest by the American people, I have preserved them with considerable minuteness.

1 venture to hope, that the account he presents of the inci- dents of his travels ; his descriptions of the various districts of America he explored, and his illustrations of the appearance and state of the country, and the varied phases of its society, will be found of value, and instructive. They will, I trust, be esteemed an important acquisition to our sources of national history, as they afford data by which the vast progress of the Republic, in its prosperity and power, may be best realized and most adequately appreciated

These views will explain to the reader the object of my present- ing, with so much occasional particularity, notices of places, geo- graphical observations, descriptions of the means of travelling — of the exposures and inconveniences to which he was subjected and the absence of facilities and accommodations which he encountered in his extended American wanderings. The facts, thus exhibited, will portray more vividly to the mind, than arfy elaborate comments, the magic changes and the unparalleled advance, which, in three-fourths of a century, have signalized the career of our country.

While sojourning in Europe, during the Revolution, for the term of about five years, my father travelled extensively in France, England, Flanders and Holland.

The patronage and friendship of Doctor Franklin and Mr. Adams, introduced him into the refined circles of French soci- ety, and to an intercourse with the eminent statesmen and philo- sophers of England. He was the bearer of despatches from Paris to London, connected with the preliminary negotiations which resulted in the treaty of peace ; and, among a very limited number of Americans, was present in the House of Peers, when the King of Great Britain acknowledged the inde- pendence of the American colonies. His journals embrace

Yl PREFACE.

ample details of these events, and descriptions of the countries he' visited — their scenery, resources and -conditions, and the manners and peculiarities of their people, with reminiscences of the distinguished persons with whom he associated.

In my anxiety to secure brevity, I may have too much con- tracted this portion of my materials.

The portion of this work devoted to an account of the ori- gin, history and influence of the Berkshire Agricultural Soci- ety, and my father's labors in the cause of agriculture, may not have interest to the mere politician or student, but to that large and growing class of intelligent readers, who are connected with husbandry, either in its practical pursuits, or as promoters of its scientific progress, the views and facts contained in that department, will possess, I think, more than ordinary value. It will be enriched by the voluminous correspondence of John Adams, Chancellor Livingston, Colonel Humphreys, Richard Peters, and other eminent rural and political economists on agriculture and its kindred topics.

The influence of my father's New-England education, will be discovered in incidental remarks on subjects of local pecu- liarities and domestic interest ; revealed, however, without bitterness or intolerance : the fervor of the whig sentiment of '76 is exhibited in severe strictures upon the character and policy of England ; the prejudices of his puritan birth are occasionally betrayed — 'excited, however, by the abuses, as he regarded them, of some of its institutions, rather than the tenets of the Roman Catholic Church.

These I have deemed it expedient to preserve, as the expres- sion of opinions and sentiments which were cherished at thai remote period, without assuming either their defence or repu- diation.

It has not been my design to present a minute detail of the life of a private citizen, but merely to trace an outline of it, in order to form a tissue upon which I may interweave, with some symmetry and system, his journals, his observations and reflec- tions ; the projects he initiated, the speculations he advanced ; his notices of men and incidents, and the public events with

• Preface. vii

wkich he was connected, or had contemplated as a close and attentive observer.

It is proper I should state, in conclusion, that I have not in- troduced into this work any portion of the correspondence of my father with many eminent persons, which I have in my possession ; and that, generally, I have selected only a part of the letters from the writers, whose correspondence I have used.

These materials form a large volume of documents, which I contemplate publishing at some future period.

W. C. Watson, Port Kent, E$sex Co., N. Y., August, 1855.

^

TABLE OF CONTENTS,

CHAPTER I.

Birth — School — Generals Scammel and Wadsworth — Premonitions of the Revolution — Military Companies — Lexington — Carry Supplies to the Army — Military Tyro — Seizure of John Brown — Schooner Gaspee — First cruise against British Flag — Inoculation — Magic Egg — Retort on Tories — Service — Prospect of Colonies. — 1-26.

CHAPTER II.

Journey to South Carolina — Connecticut — Suffering Patriot — New-Jersey — Capt. Hoogland — German Population — Lafayette — Moravian Brethren — Rope Ferry— Reading — Penn — Dunkers—Lancaster — Enter Virginia — Slaves.— 27-33.

CHAPTER III.

Night Travelling — An Incident — Fredericksburgh—Williamsburgh— Jamestown — James River — Suffolk — Arrest — Dismal Swamp— Edenton — Hugh Williamson — Hutchinson Letters — Scenery — Pamlico Sound — Deer — Wild Turkeys — Tur- pentine making — River Neuse — Newbern — A Night Bivouac — Wilmington — Deer Hunting — Opossum — The Ocean — Gen: Mcintosh — Capture of Burgoyne — Southern Hospitality — Runaway Negroes — Wingan Bay — Georgetown — Charleston.— 34-43.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IV.

Oranore Orchard — Fire at Charleston — Gov. Rutledge — Tour in Georgia—^ Warmth of Season — Gouging Match — Amusing Scene — Indians — Little Carpen- ter— Port Royal Island — Cotton Picking by hand — Eli Whitney's Cotton Gin — Beaufort — Dr. Zubley — Silk — Tea — Savannah. — 44-51.

CHAPTER V.

Rice — Cotton — Whitefield — Ogeechee River — Planter's Residence — Slaves — Face of the Country — Products — Health — Woods on Fire — Charleston — Fort Moultrie — Females — Departure — Sergeant Jasper — Night Adventure — Negro Sale — Tarborough — Halifax — Roanoke River — Homed Snake — Blazed Trees — James River. — 52-59.

CHAPTER VI.

Hanover Court-House — Election — Manners — Fight — Alexandria — Potomac — Inland Navigation — Slavery — Washington City — Baltimore — Pennsylvania—^ Contrast — Pennsylvania Farmer — Valley Forge — Bethlehem — Moravian Cere- mony— Continental Troops — Small-Pox — General Reflections. — 60-66.

CHAPTER VII.

Rhode Island — Newport — Providence — Plymouth — Boston — Marblchead — Salem — New-Hampshire — Lexington — Climate — General Remarks — Painful Scene — Mrs. Rennals — Siege of Newport — John Hancock — James Otis — Count D'Estaing — Gen. Sullivan — Battle — Determine to go to France — Packet Mercury •^Henry Laurens. — 67-75.

CHAPTER VIII.

Sail for Europe — St. George's Banks — Porpoises — Whales — Take a Dolphin — France — St. Martins — Isle De Rhe — Manners — La Rochelle — French Vehicle — Postillion — La Vendee — Nantes — Horse Patrol — Safety in Travelling — Amiens — Angers — Beggars — Peasantry — Versailles — -Lanterns — Paris. — 76-85.

COKTENTS. XI

CHAPTER IX.

Dr. Franklin — Count De Vergennes — King and Queen — French Dinner and Manners — Paris — Gates — Police — Manufactures — Louvre — Dr. Franklin's Stand- ing and Influence — Notre Dame — St. Germain's — Marlie — St. Cloud's — Elysian Fields — City of Orleans — Paved Road — Vineyards — Peasantry — Forest — Fuel of

France — Canals — Orleans — Burgundy — Languedoc — Blois — Illumination

Grand Causeway — Night Travelling — Roman Work — Tours — Angers. — 86-97.

CHAPTER X.

Ancinis — Invasion of England — Importance of American Revolution — Wed- ding— Wooden Shoes — Peasantry— Dancing— Degradation of the People — Effects of the Revolution — Musical Taste — Taking the Veil — Letter from John Adams — Count D'Arlois— Regal Hunting— Royal Privileges. — 98-104.

CHAPTER XI.

Rennes — Moreau — Customs — Fashionable Dinner — Tom. Paine — Contest with a Priest — Louis Littlepage — Journey to Paris — Country Cure — Monks of La Trappe — Mrs. Wright — Frankhn's Head— Anecdotes. — 105-123.

CHAPTER XII.

Chantilly — Lisle — Ostend — Canals Bruges — Ghent — Silas Dean — Letter

from Author of McFingal — Tomb of Rousseau— Dr. Franklin — Capture of Corn- wallis — De Vergennes' Circular. — 124-134.

CHAPTER XIII.

Correspondence with Washington — Mercantile Prosperity — Influenza — Col. Laurens — Henry Laurens — Paris — Envoys — Journey to England — Amiens — Boulogne — Calais — Mon. Dessein — Yorick — Cross the Channel — Changes — Reynolds' Escape — Dover — London — Lord Shelburne — Comparison of France and England — Duke of Manchester — English Society — Greenwich Hospital — Blackheath— Dr. Price.— 135-149.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIV.

Royal Family — Child, the Banker — Irish Giant — Anecdote — English Travel- ling— Country — Oxford — Woodstock — Stratford on Avon— Shakspeare — Birming- ham— Tory Relatives — Peter Oliver — Dr. Priestly — Mr. Watt — Letter of Dr. Franklin — Anecdote — Letters from John Adams — Dr. Moyes — Sister of Garrick — Litchfield — Road to Liverpool — Alarm — Impressment — Liverpool — Warrington — Country Frolic — Manchester — Worsley Mills — Subterranean Navigation — Rockdale Church — Tempest — Beautiful Scenery — Halifax. — 150-166.

CHAPTER XV.

Establishment— Leeds— Clothier's Hall — Political Sentiments — Sheffield — Mat- lock— Lead Mine — Singular Petrifaction — Derby — Broom Grove — Worcester — Tewksbury — Bristol — Bath — Death of Col. Laurens — Devizes — Rottenborough — Earl of Effingham — English Nobility — Edmund Burke — Prince of Wales — Des- tiny of England — Opera — Portrait by Copely — House of Lords — King's Speech Recognizing American Independence — Reflections — House of Commons — Inter- view with Lord Shelburne — Windsor — Royal Family — Return to Paris — Treaty — Anecdote — Letter of Monsieur Demmartin. — 167-183.

CHAPTER XVI.

Nantes — Roman Tower — Leave Nantes — Royal Hunt — Commercial Distress — Margate — Portsmouth — Isle of Wight — vSalisbury — Old Sarum — English Elec- tion— Fox and Howe — Ignorance of America — Wildman — Bees — London and Paris.— 184-193.

CH.VPTER XVII.

Passage to Holland — Helvoetsluys — Storks — Brielle — Revolution — The Maesc — Rotterdam — American Flag — Dutch Chimes — Braakle — Truckscutes Country — Delft — William of Orange — Hague — Churches — Mr. Adams — North Sea — Gar- dens— Mon. Dumas — La Maison du Bois — Ryswick — Incident — Letter of Mr. Adams — His Position and Character — Letter from him — Description of Hague — Leyden — Mon. Luzac — Description of Leyden — Monument to Boerhaave. — 194- 213.

CONTENTS. Xm

CHAPTER XVIII.

Haarlem — Koster — Printing — Faust. — Haarlem Organ — Lake — Amsterdam — Public Buildings — Spill House — Rasp House — Punishment — Sardam — Bruck — Utrecht — Political Excitement — Canal Travelling — Rhine — The Seven Provinces — Scheldt — Antwerp — Roads — Country Manners — Holland — Zealand — Friediand — Reflections — Form of Government— American Confederacy — Canals. — 214-230.

CHAPTER XIX.

Land in England — Tea Drinking — Anecdote — Incident — Granville Sharp — Ig- natius Sancho — Homeward Voyage — Gale — Sailor's Superstition — Land — Amer- ican Farmer — Discontents — Lecture — Home — Gen. Green. — 231-238.

CHAPTER XX.

Passage to New-York — Hurl-Gate — New-York — Long-Island — Dr. Moyes — Journey to Philadelphia — Robert Morns — Philadelphia — Journey to Baltimore — Baltimore — Alexandria — Visit Mt. Vernon — Washington — Falls of the Potomac — Canals-r-AnnapoIis — Stage Sleighs — Journey North — Journey to North Car o lina — Norfolk — Mode of Travelling — Interior of North Carolina — Marine Shells — Mrs. Ashe and Col. Tarleton— Halifax— Warrington — Anecdote — Deer-Hunting — Nut-bush Adventure — Scotch-Irish — Battle-Ground of Guilford.— 239-254.

CHAPTER XXI.

Moravians — Quakers — Yadkin — Mecklenburgh — Gen. Polk — Visit Catawba Indians — Indian Chief — New River — Educated Indian — Indian Queen — Hanging Rock — Gen. Sumpter — Flat Rock — Camden — Battle-Field — Gates and Green — Adventure — Western Emigration — Yankee Trick — Cock-Fight — New Constitu- tion— Election — Party Contest — Return North. — 255-264.

CHAPTER XXII.

Materials for the Work — Marriage — Springfield, Western Massachusetts — Hudson — Albany — John De Neuville — Schenectady — Col. Talbot — Johnson Hall — Mohawk Valley — German Population — Revolutionary Sufferings — Site of Utica — Privations — Whitesborough — Settlers — Mohawks — Gen. Herkimer — Battle-

XIV CONTENTS.

Field — Indians — Fort Stanwix — Treaty — Wood Creek — Inland Navigation — Peter Otsequette — Descent of the Mohawk — Site of Troy — Lansingburgh — Half- Moon — Cohoes Falls — The Hudson — Romance in Real Life — Thrilling Incident — Residence in Albany — Freedom of the City — Local Improvements — Albany Bank — Incident — Grave of Franklin — Last Interview with him — Franklin and Adams.— 265-287.

CHAPTER XXIII.

New Lebanon Springs — Shakers — Saratoga — Ballston — Western Tour — Ger- man Population — Mohawk Valley — Bateau Travelling- — Night Bivouac — Fort Stanwix — Wood Creek — Canal Improvements — Write Home — Oneida Lake — Fish — Anticipations — Hermit — Fort Brewerton — Onondaga River — Salmon — Indian Fishing — Indians — King Kiadote and Queen — Indian Tongue — Seneca River— Salt Lake— Salt Works— Canals.— 288-302.

CHAPTER XXIV.

Robbery — Indian Salt Makers — Indian Royal Family — Indian Habits — Seneca River — Encampment — Aromatic Grass — Salt Deposites — Salt Manufactures — Salt Marshes — Cayuga Lake — Medical Practice^ Pioneers — Healthiness of Sav- atre Life — Seneca Falls — Canals — Prospects — Country — Seneca Lake — Geneva — Appletown — Indian Orchard — Gen. Sullivan — Senecas — Religious Meeting — Navigate Seneca Lake — Ovid — Return — Description of Cayuga and Seneca Lakes — Aspect of the Country — Want of Water — Indian Navigation — Attrac- tions of the Country — Speculative Views — Connection of the Lakes and Susque- hanna River — First W^cstern Stage. — 303-315

CHAPTER XXV.

Appeals to the Legislature and public on the subject of Inland Navigation — Labors in that Cause — Gen. Schuyler — Letter from him — Canal Law, '92 — Let- ter from Gen. Schuyler — Letter from Robert Morris — Tribute to him — Cana' Companies — Effects of Improvement — Niagara Falls Canal — Company Organ- ized— Canal Controversy of 1820 — De Witt Clinton — Hosack's Memoirs of him — Letter of Robert Troup to Dr. Hosack — Letters of John Adams. — 316-331.

CHAPTER XXVI.

Attacks on Land Office — Character of Gen. Schuyler — Gen. Varnum — Sketch of his Life — Letter to his Wife — Talleyrand — French Emigrants — War with

CONTENTS. XV

France — Truxton — Projects of Local and Public Improvements — Chancellor Liv- ingston— His Character and Services — Letters from him — Louisiana Treaty — Introduces Merino Sheep — Sheep Shearing Festival — Prices of Merinos — Doctor Mitchell — Gen. Humphreys — Letter from him — Steamboats — Mr. Muller — Music frora Jews' Harps — Letters to and from John Adams — Hostility of Hamilton to him.— 332-348.

CHAPTER XXVII.

Tour to Vermont and Lake Champlain — Ballston — Sans Souci — Manners — Saratoga — Congress Hall — Culture of Sand Plains — Glenn's Falls — Lake George — Sail Down — Beautiful Scenery — Fish — Outlet of Lake George — Ticonderoga — Crown Point — ^Lake Champlain — Vermont — Farms and Farmers — Vergennes — Arnold's Fleet — Burlington — Sand Bar — Grand Isle — Cumberland Head — Platts- burgh — Saranac Indians — Country — Peru — Quakers — Splendid View from Hal- lock's Hill — Historic Ground — Au Sable River — Adgates' Falls — Walled Banks of the Au Sable — Willsboro' Mountains — Ferry — Valley of Otter Creek — Middle bury — Gen. Nixon — Rutland — Union College — Dr. Nott — Sermon on Death of Hamilton — Incident — Politics — Letters from Dr. Nott — Party Contest, 1807 — Letters on that subject from Eli.' ha Jenkins, Thomas Tillotson, and E. C. Genet —349-363.

CHAPTER XXVIIL

Removal to Pittsfield — Berkshire County — State of Manufactures and Agricul- ture— Introduction of Improved Stock — First Exhibition — Efforts to Promote Improvements — Letter From Elbridge Gerry — Organization of Berkshire Agri- cultural Society — Plan, Operations, and History of it — Its Influences and Effects — Description of a Fair by a Virginian — The War of 1812 — Letters from Chan- cellor Livingston and Col. Humphreys — Letters from John Adams on that subject and Agriculture. — 364-381.

CHAPTER XXIX.

Gen. Hull — Letters from him — Letter frora Robert Fulton— Patriotic Extract — Jewish Phylactery — Letter to Dr. Williamson — Return to Albany — Testimo- nials of Respect — Tariff Policy — Destiny of New-England — Address before Berk- shire Society — Agricultural Labors in New- York — Otsego County Agricultural J Society — Gov. Clinton — Report on Agriculture— Correspondence— Organization of County Societies — Foreign Circular — Introduction of Seeds — Letters from Riebard Peters — Correspondence with Hartford County Society. — 382-403.

XVI CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXX.

Agricultural Law — National Board of Agriculture — Correspondence with Thomas Jefferson — Letter from James Madison — Letter from Dr. Mitchell — Pat, tern Farm — Tour to Detroit — Canal Boat — Incident — Syracuse — Progress of Improvement — Auburn — Cayuga Agricultural Society — Letter from Col. Myn- derse — Geneva — Canandaigua — Batavia — Causeway — Holland Purchase — Penn- sylvania Wagons — Buffalo Harbor — Black Rock — Gen. Porter — Steamboat — Niagara—Ferry — Battle of Chippewa — Rapid Falls — Battle of Bridgewater — Gen. Rial!— Anecdote— Fort Erie— Attack. — 404-419.

CHAPTER XXXI.

Voyage up Lake Erie — Discomforts — Land at Erie — Harbor — Perry's Fleet — Hulks — His Victory — Influence and Nature of it — Anecdote of Ship Lawrence — Constitution and Java — Gen. Hyslop's Testimony — Plan for Improving the Har- bor— Old French Fort — Gen. Wayne — Grand River — Cleveland — Harbor— Storm — Archipelago of the West — Put-In Bay — Detroit River — Detroit — Fourth of July — View of Lake Erie — Anticipated Progress — Description of Detroit — River and Island — Wretched Agriculture — Face of the Country — Explorations — Wolves — Old Orchards — Indians — Disgusting Scenes — Hull's Surrender — Return Voy age — Reflections and Anticipations on Michigan. — 420-43L

CHAPTER XXXII.

Correspondence with Mr. Adams — Letters from him — Letter from John Q Adams — Tour into Canada — St. John's — La Prairie — St. Lawrence — Montreal — La Chine Caned — Account of Works — Prospect and Effect of Canadian Canals — American Tourists — Speculative View of the Future. — 432-442.

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Removal to Port Kent — Aids Public Improvements — Crooked Lake Canal — Letter of Gen. McClure — Letter of W. W. McKay — Conception of the Crooked Lake Canal — Retirement — Project of Connecting Boston and the St. Lawrence — Rail Road — Convention at Montpelier — Speech — Comments of the Press — Labors — Au Sable Valley Rail Road — Temperance Reform — Address— Cholera — Last Visit to Berkshire — Address to the Society — Testimonials of Respect — Theory of Future Population — Mr. Clay — Gov. Seward and Mr. Van Buren — — Incident — Tribute to Henry Coleman — Letter from him — Sickness — Ruling Passion — Reflections — Death — Epitaph. — 443-460.

MEN AND TIMES

OF

THE REYOLUTION.

CHAPTER I.

Birth — Gens. Scammel and Wadsworth — Premonitions of the Eevolu- tion — Military Companies — Lexington — Carry SuppHes to the Army — Military Tyro — Seizure of John Brown — Schooner Gaspee — First Cruise against British Flag — Inoculation — Magic Egg — Retort on the Tories — Service — Prospect of Colonies.

I WAS born on the 22d day of January, 1758, in Plymouth, Mass., within rifle-shot of that consecrated rock, where, in New-England, the first European foot was pressed. Among the pious and devoted pilgrims of the May-Flower, Edward Winslow, the third governor of the infant colony, was an energetic and conspicuous leader. From him I am descended in the sixth generation on my mother's side. Born and nur- tured among the descendants of the Puritans, I was early im- bued with their higii sentiments of religious and political lib- erty. My father and all my relatives, with a few exceptions, were zealous and active Whigs, aiding with their hands and purses the glorious struggle for Independence. I remained at the ordinary common-school until the age of fourteen. This school was kept by Alexander Scammel and Peleg Wadsworth,

18 MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION;

both afterwards distinguished officers in the revolutionary army. In common with the other patriotic spirits of the age, they evidently saw the approach of the coming tempest. I remember them as early as 1771, intently studying military tactics, and have often seen them engaged in a garden adjoin- ing my father's, drilling each other. They formed the boys into a military company, and our school soon had the air of a miniature arsenal, with our wooden guns and tin bayonets sus- pended around the walls. At twelve o'clock, the word was given, " to arms," and each boy seized his gun ; then, led by either Scammel or Wadsworth, we were taught military evo- lutions, and marched over hills, through swamps, often in the rain, in the performance of these embryo military duties. A sad and impressive commentary upon the effect of these early influences, is afforded by the fact that half this company per- ished in the conflicts of the Revolution. Scammel was tall in person, exceeding six feet, slender and active. He was kind and benevolent in his feelings, and deeply beloved by his pupils. He was eminently distinguished during the Revolution for his conduct and bravery. In 1777, he was very conspicuous at the battle of Saratoga, leading his regiment of the New-Hamp- shire troops, in a desperate charge upon Burgoyne's lines. At the siege of Yorktown, he held the important station of Adju- tant-General to Washington's army, and there fell in a recon- noisance upon the British works.

In the m(?nth of September, 1773, at the age of fifteen, I left my native place, and proceeded to Providence, Rhode Island, to engage in my apprenticeship with John Brown, the founder of Brown University, and then one of the most extensive and energetic merchants of America.

In the December of that year, the tea was destoyed at Bos- ton, and our disputes with the mother country began to assume a serious aspect. The public mind was gradually ripening to the fearful appeal to arms. During the summer of this year the youth of Providence formed themselves into military asso- ciations. We often met to drill, were well equipped, and in uniform dresses. I enrolled myself in the cadet company

OB, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSON. 19

commanded by Col. Nightingale, consisting of seventy- five youths, the flower of Providence. The uniform of this company was scarlet coats, faced with yellow. These com- panies, five in number, were reviewed by the distinguished Gen. Lee, in the autumn of 1774, and received from him the

highest encomiums. In a letter to the Duke of , October

29th, 1774, after speaking of the preparations in progress in the different colonies to resist oppression, he adds, " I was present at a review of some of their companies in Providence, R. I. I really never saw anything more perfect."

The storm now thickened in our political horizon — some acts of hostility had already been committed near Salem. The whole country was agitated as if passing over a threatening volcano. Liberty companies in every community were or- ganizing. The intelligence of the march upon Lexington reached Providence in the afternoon of the 19th of April, 1775. Our five companies flew to arms. The whole population was convulsed by the most vehement excitement. We were un- provided with cartridges, and were compelled to defer our march until morning. I spent the most of that agitated night with many of our company, in running bullets and preparing ammunition. We mustered early the next morning, and march- ed for the scene of action. The royal governor, Wanton, issued a proclamation, which was little regarded, interdicting our passing the colony line, under the penalty of open rebel- lion. Capt. Green, afterwards the celebrated Gen. Green, with his company of Warwick Greens, and Capt. Varnam, afterwards a revolutionary general, with his company of Greenwich Volunteers, marched with us at the same time towards Lexington.

We had advanced six miles amid the cries and tears of women, every road we passed enveloped in a cloud of dust from the march of armed men, hastening onward, when an express met us, with the information that the regulars had been driven back into Boston.

These exhilarating, though tragic scenes, began to unsettle my mind, and incapacitate it for the dull drudgery of a store.

20 MEN AND TIMES OF THE EE VOLUTION ;

Many of my acquaintances had determined to enter the army ; anxious to pursue the same course, I appUed to my father and Mr. Brown, but in vain, to be released from my indentures.

On the 3d of July, 1775, Gen. Washington assumed the command of the forces then besieging Boston. He found an army animated with' zeal and patriotism, but nearly destitute of every munition of war, and of powder in particular. Mr. Brown, anticipating the war, had instructed the captains of his vessels to freight on their return voyages with that article. At this crisis, when the army before Boston had not four rounds to a man, most fortunately one of Mr. Brown's ships brought in one-and-a-half tons of powder. It was immediately forward- ed, under my charge, to head-quarters at Cambridge. I took with me six or eight recruits to guard it. I delivered my let- ter to Gen. Washington in person, and was deeply impressed with an awe I cannot describe in contemplating that great man, his august person, his majestic mien, his dignified and commanding deportment, more conspicuous perhaps at that moment from the fact that he was in the act of admonishing a militia colonel with some animation. He directed a young officer to accompany me and superintend the delivery of the powder at Mystic, two miles distant. Whilst delivering it at the powder-house, 1 observed to the officer, " Sir, 1 am ha])py to see so many barrels of powder here." He whispered a secret in my ear, with an indiscretion that marked the novice in military affiiirs. " These barrels are filled with sand." " And wherefore ?" I inquired. " To deceive the enemy," he replied, " should any spy by chance look in." Such was the wretched appointment of that army upon which rested the hopes of American liberty.

Soon after this occurrence, Mr. Brown, having contracted to supply the army of Washington with flour, sailed for Pro- vidence with a cargo from Newport. The British not having seized any American vessels, he apprehended no danger, although Commodore Wallis, with two twent}- -gun ships, lay in the harbor. His vessel was, however, seized, and himself sent a prisoner to Boston in irons, charged with heading a party in

OR, MEMOIRS OF ELKA.NAH WATSON". 21

1772, disguised as Indians, Avhich burnt his Majesty's schooner Gaspee in Providence river. The charge was true, although the British government could never obtain any evidence of the fact. That bold and successful enterprise was one of the prominent events which accelerated the impending revolu- tion,*

Mr. Brown had occupied a father's place to me ; I felt grateful, and in common with the whole community, indignant and exasperated at his seizure. A consultation was imme- diately held, and it was decided to send an express to Plymouth,

* The following narrative of that occurrence was written by Colonel Ephraim Bowen, a prominent and highly respectable citizen of Providence, Rhode Island, who was a youthful actor in the scene, and a member of our cadet company. It is due to history, and the memory of the daring spirits who accomplished the deed, that a narrative of it so authentic *and reliable, should be perpetuated. " In the year 1772, the British government had stationed at Newport, Rhode Island, a sloop-of-war, with her tender, the schooner called the Gaspee, of eight guns, commanded by William Duddingston, a lieu- tenant in the British Navy, for the purpose of preventing the clandestine landing of articles subject to the payment of duty. The captain of this schooner made it his practice to stop and board all vessels entering or leaving the ports of Rhode Island, or leaving Newport for Providence.

On the 17th of June, 1773, Captain Thomas Lindsey left Newport, in his packet, for Providence, about noon, wifh the wind at north, and soon after the Gaspee was under sail, in pursuit of Lindsey, and continued the chase as far as Namcut Point. Lindsey was standing easterly, with the tide on ebb, about two hours, when he hove about at the end of Namcut Point, and stood to the west- ward ; and Duddingston in close chase, changed his course and ran on the point near its end and grounded. Lindsey continued in his course up the river, and arrived at Providence about sunset, when he immediately informed Mr. John Brown, one of our first and most respectable merchants, of the situation of the Gaspee. Mr. Brown immediately resolved on her destruction, and he forthwith directed one of his trusty shipmasters to collect eight of the largest long boats in the harbor, with five oars to each, to have the oar locks well muffled to prevent noise, and to place them at Fenner's wharf, directly opposite to the dwelling of Mr. James Sabin. Soon after sunset, a man passed along the main street, beat- ing a drum, and informing the inhabitants that the Gaspee was aground on Nam- cut Point, and inviting those persons who felt a disposition to go and destroy • that troublesome vessel, to repair in the evening to Mr. James Sabin's house. About nine o'clock I took my father's gun, and my powder-horn and bullets, and went to Mr. Sabin's, and found it full of people, where I loaded my gun, and all remained there till ten o'clock, some ccisting bullets in the kitchen, and others mailing arrangements for departure, when orders were given to cross the street to Fenner's wharf and embark, which soon took place, and a sea-captain acted

22 MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION;

in order to fit out two armed schooners to intercept, if possible, the captured flour-vessel, in her circuitous passage around Cape Cod, and release Mr. Brown. In the service of Mr. Brown, and a native of Plymouth, I was entrusted with the im- portant mission. With my musket at my back, I mounted a fleet horse, and arrived in Plymouth by two o'clock in the morning, alarmed the town by the cry of fire, and roused up the Committee of Safety. At sunrise I was awakened by the beat of the drum to muster volunteers for the enterprise, and without hesitation fell into the ranks. By two o'clock the same

as steersman of each boat, of whom I recollect Captain Abraham Whipple, Cap- tain John B. Hopkins, (with whom I embarked) and Captain Benjamin Dunn. A line from right to left was soon formed, with Captain Whipple on the right, and Captain Hopkins oi^ the right of the left wing. The party thus proceeded till within about sixty yards of the Gaspee, when a sentinel hailed, " Who comes there r' No answer. He hailed again, and no answer. In about a minute Duddingston mounted the starboard gunwale, in his shirt, and hailed, " Who comes there V No answer. He hailed again, when Captain Whipple answered as follows : " I am the Sheriff of the County of Kent ; I have got a warrant to apprehend you ; so surrender, d — n you."

I took my seat on the thwart, near the larboard row-lock, with my gun by my right side, and facing forward. As soon as Duddingston began to hail, Joseph Bucklin, who was standing on the main thwart by my right side, said to me, " Ephe, reach me your gun, and I can kill that fellow." I reached it to him ac- cordingly, when, during Captain Whipple's replying, Bucklin fired, and Dud- dingston fell ; and Bucklin exclaimed, " I have killed the rascal !" In less time than a minute after Captain Whipple's answer, the boats were alongside the Gaspee, and boarded without opposition. The men on deck retreated below as Duddingston entered the cabin.

As it was discovered that he was wounded, John Mawney, who had, for two or three years, been studying medicine and surgery, was ordered to go into the cabin and dress Duddingston's wound, and I was directed to assist him. On ex- amination it was found the ball took effect directly below the navel. Dudding- ston called for Mr. Dickinson to produce bandages and other necessaries for the dressing of the wound, and, when finished, orders were given to the schooner's company to collect their clothing and everything belonging to them, and to put them into the boats, as all of them were to be sent on shore. All were soon col- lected and put on board of the boats, including one of our boats.

They departed and landed Duddingston at the old still-house wharf at Pau- tuxet, and put the chief into the house of Joseph Rhodes. Soon after, all the party were ordered to depart, leaving one boat for the leaders of the expedition, who soon set the vessel on fire, which consumed her to the water's edge.

The names of the most conspicuous actors are as follows, viz : — Mr. John

OR, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSON. 23

afternoon, we embarked on board of two dilapidated fish- ing schooners, equipped with two old cannon each, with powder loose in barrels, and between thirty and forty men to a vessel, black and white, all officers and all men. Thus equipped, we plunged into the ocean, reckless of every conse- quence, determined to rescue Mr. Brown. We had no com- mission, and had we been captured, would, in all probability, been hung as pirates, with little formality. We cruised ten days east of Cape Cod, without success, and being pursued by a twenty-gun ship, escaped into the harbor of Plymouth. Thus it fell to my singular destiny, to sail from the place of my na- tivity, at the age of seventeen, in probably the first American vessel that opposed the British flag. We embarked, on this occasion, within a few rods of the rock upon which, one hun- dred and fifty-five years before, the Pilgrims had landed, in the assertion of that liberty of which they implanted the earliest seeds, and which was now endangered in the hands of their de- scendants.

Mr. Brown was carried into Boston, and soon after released by the interposition of his brother Moses Brown, a conspicuous and influential quaker, and truly a great man.

In the month of December following. Gen. Lee arrived at Providence, under orders to inspect the position at Newport harbor, then in possession of the British. He solicited and re- ceived an escort of our company. We embarked on board of two vessels, and landed on the north end of the island. On the ensuing day, we marched and counter-marched through the streets of Newport, without annoyance, although the Brit- ish fleet were moored in the harbor in full view. Thus unde- fined and equivocal was our posture towards England at that period.

Soon after I was inoculated for the small-pox, in corn- Brown, Captain Abraham Whipple, John B. Hopkins, Benjamin Dunn, and five others whose names I have forgotten, and John Mawney, Benjamin Page, Joseph Buckhn, and Toupin Smith, my youthful companions, all of whom are dead — I believe every man of the party, excepting myself; and my age is eighty-six years this twenty-ninth day of August, eighteen hundred and thirty- nine.

24 MEN AND TIMES OF THE KEVOLUTION ;

pany with one hundred and one persons, and confined in a large barrack, in a secluded position. The weather was intensely cold, and although reduced to almost starvation by our severe regimen, we were not permitted to approach the only fire- place the barrack contained. Our sufferings were severe, in passing through this then established process of inoculation.

About the time we left the hospital. Major Thomas, of the army, arrived at Plymouth, from head-quarters. He had left Washington retreating through New-Jersey. I spent the evening with him, in company with many devoted Whigs. We looked upon the contest as near its close, and considered ourselves a vanquished people. The young men present de- termined to emigrate, and seek some spot where liberty dwelt, and where the arm of British tyranny could not reach us. Major Thomas animated our desponding spirits by the assu- rance that Washington was not dismayed, but evinced the same serenity and confidence as ever. Upon him rested aU our hopes.

On the ensuing Sunday morning, as the people -were on their way to church, I suddenly witnessed a great com- motion in the street, and a general rush to the back door

of Mrs. H 's dwelling. Supposing the house to be on fire,

I darted into the crowd, and on entering the house, heard the good woman's voice above the rest, exclaiming, with an egg in her hand — "There, there, see for yourselves." I seized the magic egg, and to my utter astonishment read upon it, in legi- ble characters formed by the shell itself, " Oh, America, Ameri- ca, Howe shall he thy conqueror!'' The agitation and de- spondency produced, will hardly be appreciated by those unac- quainted with the deep excitability of the public mind at that period. We were soon relieved from our gloom and appre- hension, by ascertaining from an ingenious painter, who hap- pily came in, that the supernatural intimation was the effect of a simple chemical process. We were convinced it was a de- vice of some Tory to operate on the public feeling. In the afternoon, an express arrived from Boston ; a hand-bill was sent into the pulpit, and at the close of the service our venera-

OK, MESIOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSON. 25

ble Whisc Parson Robins, read from his desk the heart-thrillina: news of the capture of the Hessians at Trenton — a happy re- tort upon the Tories.

In the following February, a British army then being in the occupation of Rhode Island, our company was detached on duty to Pawtucket, The standing sentinel in the severity of winter weather, and the performance of other actual military duties, were severe trials to our patriotism.

In the early part of 1777, great preparations were made in the Northern States to close the struggle with Great Britain, by an energetic and united effort, in the campaign of that year. I was deeply anxious to unite with many of my asso- ciates, who were again embarking in the cause of liberty, and renewed in the most earnest spirit my solicitations to join the army ; but my father interdicted the measure, and my inden- tures held me enchained.

The commerce of Providence was at this time prostrated, — all business in a measure paralyzed. I was languishing, com- paratively, without employment for my hands, or occupation to my mind, when in the latter part of August, I was aroused from my lethargy by an unexpected proposition from Mr. Brown and his brother Nicholas, for me to proceed to South Carolina and Georgia, in trust of a large sum of money, about •$50,000, to be placed in the hands of their agents in the Southern States, to be invested in cargoes for the European markets.

The responsibility was a heavy one, and appalling to an inexperienced youth of nineteen. It was in the crisis of the Revolution, Burgoyne bearing down with a veteran army upon Albany, Howe approaching Philadelphia with a power- ful armament, the royalists in every section of the Union con- vulsing the countrv, and the negroes in some of the Southern States in partial insurrection. All these circumstances con- spired to render the enterprise hazardous, and diflicult to be achieved.

My anxiety for change, and desire of seeing the world, pre- ponderated ; and notwithstanding these obstacles, I embraced

26 MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION;

the proposition with avidity. During my trying and pro- tracted journey, I was most assiduous in keeping a daily jour- nal. It became quite voluminous — containing a great fund of matter of interest only to myself and my immediate friends, but I feel assured that it also embraced notices of incidents and of men, as well as statistical facts, which will tend to illustrate the manners and customs of the people at that period, and shed some new light upon the events and characters of the Revolution. That portion of my journal having, as I imagine, this interest to the general reader, I have very con- siderably condensed.

OE, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSON. 27

CHAPTER II.

Journey to South Carolina — Connecticut Suffering Patriot — New-Jersey — Capt. Hoogland — La Fayette — Moravian Brethren — Rope Ferry — German Population — Reading, Penn, Bunkers, Lancaster — Enter Vir- ginia— Slaves.

On the 4th of September, 1777, 1 left Providence, on my way to South Carolina. With a good horse under me, a hanger at my side, and a pair of pistols in my holster, I crossed the great bridge at Providence, and on the fourth day reached Fairfield, Connecticut. From Providence to Windham the country, though broken and hilly, was thickly inhabited by a hardy and independent race of farmers. In approaching the Connecticut River, the land becomes more level, and the soil good and well tilled. I found Hartford a respectable and wealthy place, of about three hundred houses, witli a State House and other public edifices. New Haven is a delightful village, con- taining about four hundred dwellings. Many of its inhabitants are wealthy. The place has owed much of its support to its lite- rary institution, Yale College — its commerce having been very limited. Whilst at Fairfield I was not a little agitated by a discharge of alarum guns in the dead of night. A marauding party of British and Tories had landed near the village, and the inhabitants were aroused to repel them.

I travelled over the road to Danbury, pursued by the British the spring before, in their successful attempt upon the public stores collected at that place. Gen. Wooster was here killed, and Arnold on this occasion evinced his usual fearless intre- pidity. He had a horse shot under him, and killed with his pistol a soldier who attempted to transfix him witha bayonet as he lay entangled beneath his dead horse.

On approaching Danbury, I noticed a venerable old man looking intently at the ruins of a small house, which had re-

28 MEN AND TIMES OF THE EEVOLUTION ;

Gently been burnt. His appearance excited my sympathy, and I inquired the cause of his evident distress. He replied, that he was cast upon the world, at the age of seventy-eight, without a home or property. " There," continued he, pointing at the ruins, "I resided with my aged wife for fifty years, in contentment and comfort ; our little all was in that dwelling collected. When the British approached, although warned to flee, we decided to remain. A British officer promised us protection, and con- tinued with us for some time. When he left it, my own nephew^ entered the house, fired it, and dragged me away a prisoner." He added, that he was carried to Long Island, and had just returned.

From Danbury I proceeded to Peekskill, through a country infested by Tories and outlaws. The following morning after my arrival here, Col. Talbot came express, bearing the des- ponding news of the defeat of Washington at Brandywine. I crossed the Hudson at King's Ferry, and proceeded to Mor- ristown, in New-Jersey. To this place Gen. Washington re- tired after his glorious exploits at Trenton and Princeton. The country is principally settled by the Dutch and Germans.

I was amused and impressed (being only conversant with the customs of New-England) with the manners and habits I witnessed among this people. Their table customs struck me forcibly. Instead of our elaborate grace before meat, the mas- ter of the house, bare-headed, holding his hat before his face, remained for some time in silence. The good woman, instead of the generous New-England supply of sugar, placed a lump near the cup, to be bitten off as occasion required. The farm- houses, generally of stone, were neat and well built. At Mor- ristown I met Capt. Hoogland, an intimate old friend, whom I knew at Newport in 1774. He had been taken prisoner at the battle of Long Island, and was now escorting some British officers prisoners to New-England,*

* The liistory of poor Hoogland, liis self-sacrificing, devoted patriotism, and illy requited services, had many a parallel in the lives of the officers of the Revolution. It found them buoyant in hope, rich in the promises of youth, or the vigor of manhood — it left many of those who survived maimed in person,

OR, MEMOIES OF ELKANAH WATSON. 29

I associated myself at Morristown with two gentlemen jom"- neying towards South Carolina. On the 23d of September, I resumed my journey in company with my new companions, and here relinquished my saddle, and pursued the residue of my long route in a sulkey. At Princeton, we saw a large four- story college, which had been occupied by the British on the assault of Washington. The battle-ground of the preceding winter was pointed out to us. At Trenton we were shown the orchard in which the Hessians laid down their arms. If ever the fate of a nation hung upon the issue of an hour, it was on the 2d of January, 1777, when Washington held the south, and the British army the north part of this village, separated only by a narrow creek.

Trenton contains about seventy dwellings, situated principal- ly on two narrow streets, running parallel.

On reaching Burlington, upon the Delaware, hoping to es- cape the British, we learned to our inexpressible chagrin, that their light dragoons had, two hours before, taken possession of Philadelphia. This event compelled us to change our plans, and take a circuitous route, about one hundred and fifty miles further, by way of Reading, Lancaster, York, &c. We cross- ed the Delaware at Cowles' Ferry, and were arrested under suspicion (which resulted from my minute inquiries) of being British spies. In the morning we were released. We passed over a wretched new country, occupied almost exclusively by the German's log hut, until we reached the Lehigh river. We forded this stream with extreme difficulty and danger, being in one place compelled to swim our horses. At Bethlehem we re- broken in constitution, and inadequately remunerated by their country. When I lirst knew Hoogland in 1774, he was a handsome, facetious, high-spirited youth of eighteen. We mingled together in the gaieties of the beautiful island, then in the rich enjoyment of plenty and repose. Too soon it became the theatre of contending armies. Three years after I again met him, a sun-burnt veteran, who had already seen much hard service. In 1788, fourteen years afterwards, I again saw him, a merchant in liansingburgh, N. Y. He was then, although young in years, old in suffering. He appeared like an old man hobbling on crutches. Thus he lingered a few years longer, and sank into a premature grave, a martyr in the cause of liberty. Posterity can never estimate the sacri- ces and sufferings of the patriots of the Revolution.

30 MEN" AND TIMES OF THE EEVOLUTION ;

mained two days, enjoying the comforts of a spacious tavern. The Marquis de La Fayette,* and other officers wounded at the Brandywine battle, were quartered at the same house. This is an interesting place, fifty-four miles N. W. of Philadel- phia, situated on a declivity facing the Lehigh. It contains about fifty stone houses, and was inhabited by a religious sect of Ger- mans, called Moravians. The village was supplied with water, forced up the hill, in logs, from the river, by means of machi- nery. A conspicuous object in this village is a large stone edifice, occupying a romantic situation on the banks of the river, and appropriated to the education of young females of the sect. They are required to observe a strict seclusion, and are only permitted to leave its walls in the exercise of some religious duties at the church, and on formal occasions. We crossed the Lehigh by a rope ferry, a contrivance new to me> ,and which combines much economy with a saving of labor and machinery. A strong rope is attached to a post on each side of the river; along the rope a pulley or block runs, through which passes another rope. Each end of the latter rope is secured to the head and stern of tlie boat. The bow of the boat being directed up stream, the current strikes her

* He had just been brought on a Utter from the battle-ground, where he held a distinguished command, and acquitted himself with high applause. I saw him a few years subsequent, on board of a frigate at Providence. He was then tall and slender, and of rather light complexion. After a lapse of forty-seven years, I again met him, the day after his landing at New- York, August 3d, 1824. It was with the utmost difficulty I could realize him to be the same man whom I had seen almost half a century before at Bethlehem. I could scarcely discover the slightest re- semblance. Age, and wounds, and care, had completely metamorphosed him, in person and features. The last time I met him was in June, 1825, at Burlington, Vt. He spent the evening with a crowded party, at the house of Governor Van Ness, whence we conducted him at midnight to the steamboat. The wharf was thronged with men, women and children. Three steamboats were in waiting to join the escort, all brilliantly illuminated, with many a proud streamer waving in the breeze. He departed amid the pealing of cannon, the ringing of bells, the clangor of music, and the cheers of a thousand grateful hearts. The night was serene, the moon shone brightly ; everything above and below seemed to give splendor and solemnity, and to communicate interest to the thrilling scene. He, some months after, embarked for France, to engage in new scenes of glory, of diisinterested patriotism, and blood.

OR, MEMOIES OF ELKANAH WATSON. 31

obliquely, producing a strong eddy under her stern. She is thus propelled with considerable velocity, the moment she is unmoored. We found the country but partially settled. The prevailing population is German. I first noticed here the Ger- man girls at work in the fields, a custom most strange and re- pulsive to the eye of an inhabitant of New-England.

Reading is situated near the Schuylkill river, in a well-culti- vated wheat-growing district. It contained about four hundred houses. It was settled by Penn in 1700. His and his successors' ground-rents amounted to £500 sterling, previous to the Revo- lution. This system of quit rents, retained by Penn, prevailed extensively in the State, and reached to oppression in many cases. It was unceasingly assailed by FrankUn, and with ulti- mate success.*

At Reamstown I was placed between two beds, without sheets or pillows. This, as I was told, was a prevailing Ger- man custom, but which, as far as my experience goes, tends little to promote either the sleep or comfort of a stranger.

Early on the morning of the 4th we entered the village of Euphrates, within sound of the thunder of Washington's artil- lery at Germantown. This village is inhabited by a most ec- centric and remarkable sect of fanatics. They call themselves Dunkers. They own a large tract of land in this vicinity, and founded this village about 1724, in a romantic and sequestered position, well adapted to their professed abstraction from the rest of the human family. They profess to believe themselves unconnected with a sinful world, and that they move among ethereal spirits. Their community numbered about one hun- dred souls. They dressed in long tunics reaching to the heels, girded with a sash, and with woollen caps falling over their shoulders. They baptize by immersion. They believe in a future state, and that salvation is attained only by penance and

* The Patriots of Pennsylvania, by the influence of the Revolution, were en- abled, I believe, to expunge this relic of feudal assumption from their system. It would have been wise if other States, overburthencd by enormous manors, could have devised some equitable scheme, by which they might have extirpated this anti-republican fungus. [1821.]

82 MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION;

the mortification of the flesh. They never shave. The sexes have no intercourse, Hving in separate habitations, and even occupying different places of pubhc worship. They sleep in apartments of only sufficient size to hold them, occupied by a wooden bench, a little inclining, on which they sleep. In the place of pillows they rest the head on wooden blocks, so pre- pared as to receive it up to the ears. They carry on quite im- portant manufactures, and amuse themselves in rudely painting scripture scenes, which are suspended in their chapel. They subsist exclusively on vegetables and roots, except at their oc- casional love-feasts. Rumor, with her thousand tongues, is, of course, not sparing of their reputation. As we were taking our departure, we heard the brethren chanting their melodious hymns' in plaintive notes that thrilled our souls.

Lancaster was, at this period, the largest inland town in Ame- rica, containing about one thousand houses, and 6,000 inhabi- tants, with a State house and five edifices for public worship. Many of the houses were large, and built with brick. It is' situ- ated in one of the most lovely and luxuriant regions in the country, delightfully diversified with waving hills, pleasant dales, adorned by lovely scenery, and highly cultivated farms — in a word, all that can invite to a pastoral life. Here existed expen- sive manufactures, especially of the rifles so fatal in the hands of our patriotic yeomanry.

At York the Congress was at that time assembled after its dispersion from Philadelphia. Protected by Washing- ton, whose forces interposed between them and the British arm}^ they held daily secret sessions. Here we procured pass- ports for our Southern journey. We entered Maryland on the 5th of October, and passed through Hanover and Fredericks- town into Virginia, over the Potomac a,t Newland's ferry. We found the country, through a wilderness region, infested by a semi-barbarian population. We liberated an unfortunate traveller assailed by one of these wretches, who, in his techni- cal language, swore he "would try the strength of his eye-ball strings." Soon after entering Virginia, and at a highly re- spectable house, I was shocked, beyond the power of language

OE, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSON. 83

to express, at seeing, for the first time, young negroes of both sexes, from twelve even to fifteen years old, not only running about the house, but absolutely tending table, as naked as they came into the world, not having even the poor apology of a fig leaf to save modesty a blush. What made the scene more extra- ordinary still, to my unpractised eye, was the fact that several young women were at table, who appeared totally unmoved at the scandalous violation of decency. I find custom will recon- cile us to almost everything.

34 MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION;

CHAPTER III.

Night Travelling — An Incident — Fredericksburgh — Williamsburgh — Jamestown — James River — Suffolk — Arrest — Dismal Swamp — Edenton — Hugh Williamson — Hutchinson Letters — Scenery — Pam- lico Sound — Deer— Wild Turkeys— Turpentine Making— River Neuse — Newbern — A Night Bivouac — Wihuington— Deer Hunting — Opossum — The Ocean — Gen. Mcintosh — Capture of Burgoyne — South- ern Hospitality — Runaway Negroes — Wingan Bay — Georgetown — Charleston.

Proceeding on our journey from Leesburgh, night overtook us in the midst of a wild and secluded region. A wretched ordinary, filled with a throng of suspicious characters, afforded us the only refuge ; but as the moon was just rising, we chose to press forward through the woods, rather than to encounter its hospitalities. We travelled thus until a late hour in the night, amid stately forests of tall, venerable pines, our three carriages in a line, and man Tom, our servant, in advance. Suddenly Tom came galloping back in a terrible fright, " What is the matter, Tom ?" we cried. " Oh massa, I see the d — 1 just this minute flying in dem woods !" Mr. Scott being ahead, stopped, and exclaimed, "What can it be! Don't you see it moving in the air among those trees ?" We distinctly saw the object of Tom's terror. " Well !" says Scott, " let it be the d — 1, or a d — nd tory, or what, I'll find out !" He dis- mounted, pistol in hand, and dashed into the wood, calling upon Tom to follow. They had not proceeded far, when Tom whirled about, and was in full career towards us, applying whip and spur at a merciless rate, his hat off, and his naked head in a line with the horses' mane. Mr. Scott pressed forward with due caution towards the terrific object, which still seemed to float, in the air. We were all impatience and anxiety for the fate of our gallant companion. In a moment more he made the old forest ring with his powerful voice. " I have got the

OR, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH "WATSON. 35

d — 1, or some dead tory fast by the leg ; a man in gibbets !" After this absurd scene, we advanced five miles further through the woods to a small tavern, where we found rest and comfort. Here we learned that the cause of our alarm was a negro hung in chains, for the murder of his master.

As we approached Fredericksburgh, we passed many ele- gant plantations, whose owners appeared to enjoy the splendor and afiluence of nabobs. My New-England feelings were constantly aroused and agitated by the aspect of slavery in this land of freedom. About two miles from the town, on the north bank of the Rappahannock, we examined the extensive factory belonging to Colonel Hunter, for the manufacture of small arms, bar iron, steel, files, &c. Fredericksburgh is situ- ated on the Rappahannock, and contains about eight hundred in- habitants. The river is navigable to the falls — a mile above the town. These falls are eminently beautiful and romantic — a series of several cascades following each other in rapid succession. From an eminence near this village the Blue Ridoje is dis- tinctly visible. At this place the mother of our Washington resides, and was pointed out to me. She is a majestic and venerable woman.

On the 17tli of October we reached Williamsburgh. Here, I separated from my travelling companions. This city con- tains three hundred and twenty dwelling-houses, principally built of wood, on one street three-fourths of a mile in length. At one extremity is placed the old college of William and Mary, and at the other the State House is situated. It em- braces the public offices of the State, and in it the Legislature has been accustomed to hold its sessions. Here I saw a mar- ble statue, at full length, of Lord Boutetourt. A little retired from the street stands the palace of the infamous Lord Dun- more, the last royal Governor of Virginia, who makes a con- spicuous figure in her annals, in the years 1774 and 1775. I learned with pleasure, from an intelligent gentleman of Rich- mond, that the first canal commenced in America was then constructing from Waltham to Richmond, a distance of seven miles. Its immediate object is to gain access to a coal mine

SQ MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION;

recently discovered on the estate of Mr. Divol. At Williams- burgh I associated myself with a Captain Harwood, who was proceeding also to Charleston. We passed the little village of Jamestown, on James river, interesting only from its early as- sociations and venerable ruins. Here, in 1607, English adven- turers first landed on the continent. Here Pocahontas, the noble daughter of Powhattan, shielded the remnant of the colony from famine and treachery. James river is one of the finest streams in America. It is two and a half miles wide at this place, and has thirty feet water in its channel.

From Cobham, until we approached Suffolk, the country is level, but covered with woods. Near Suffolk it becomes more cultivated. Suffolk is situated at the head of Nansemond river, a navigable, but winding, shallow stream. Here we found our- selves again in the hands of the civil authorities, on a com- plaint which had been lodged against us upon a suspicion of our being spies. My exact and curious inquiries had again excit- ed jealousy of our character. We were compelled to go before a magistrate two miles out of town, exhibit our pass- ports, take the oath of abjuration, and pay the fees of office.

Proceeding from Suffolk to Edenton, North Carolina, we passed over a spacious, level road, through a pine forest; which, beginning in this district, extends quite across North Carolina. We travelled near the North border of the great Dismal swamp, which, at this time, was infested by concealed royalists, and runaway negroes, who could not be approached with safety. They often attacked travellers, and had recently murdered a Mr. Williams.

We entered North Carolina late in the day, availing ourselves of that hospitality so characteristic of southern manners, and threw ourselves upon the kindness of Mr. Granby, a wealthy planter and merchant. From this gentle- man I learned that the Dismal swamp extends about fifty miles north and south ; that it is generally covered with water, and has in its centre, a lake called Drummond Lake, well stored with fish. He informed me that, previous to the Revolution, Washington and two other gentlemen had contemplated open-

OR, MEMOIRS OF ELKA.NAH WATSON. 87

ing a canal, for the purpose of drawing off the water and re- claiming the land for cultivation.*

Edenton is situated on the Albemarle Sound. It is defend- ed by two forts, and contained one hundred and thirty-five dwel- lings and a brick court-house. The town was nearly overrun by the busy sons of commerce, from its being protected against the access of an enemy, by the difficult navigation of a shallow water. At Edenton I met the celebrated Dr. Williamson, then a resident at that placet

At this place we crossed the sound, twelve miles, and en- tered a romantic creek, up which we sailed some distance before landing. We were delighted and soothed by the serenity of the close of the day, and the serenade of innumerable song- sters of the forest, perched upon the bushes which overhung the boat as we ascended the creek, and formed in some places natural canopies over us. After landing, we travelled eleven miles to Colonel Blount's, where we arrived late at night in Egyptian darkness. We were attacked in his yard by a pack of hounds,

* A canal has recently (1821) been constructed through the swamp, connect- ing the Chesapeake with Albemarle Sound.

t This was the identical person who obtained possession of the celebrated let- ters of Governor Hutchinson to the British Ministry. Dr. Williamson having heard that the letters were deposited in London, at a place different from that in which they ought regularly to have been filed, and having understood that there was little exactness in the business of that office, he repaired to it, and stated that he had come for the last letters received from Governor Hutchinson and Mr. Oliver, mentioning at the same time the office in which they should have been placed. The letters were delivered to him, which he carried to Dr. Frank- lin, and left the next day for Holland. These treacherous and malignant letters were the approximate cause of the Revolution. They instigated the British Gov- ernment to adopt those harsh measures, which goaded a brave people to a resist- ance, which resulted in their independence. The publication of the letters in Boston was a torch applied to the revolutionary train. They will consign the name of their author to the execration of posterity. Suspicion attached to Dr. Franklin, who was arraigned before the Privy Council, in January, 1775, and in- famously abused by Wedderburn. Williamson guarded the secret with v/ondcr- ful success. His achievement of the affair was not publicly disclosed until Dr. Hosack,in his memoirs, developed the interesting fact. The matter involved Sir John Temple in a duel with Mr. Whate. The fear of a recurrence of similar affairs induced Dr. Franklin publicly to avow his reception of the letters, but he denied all agency in the procuring of them. — Editor.

88 MEN AKD TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION ;

but, by the exertion of the half-clad negroes, who came flying from their huts to our aid, and the assistance of our own whips, escaped injury.

From Colonel Blount's we proceeded to Bath on Pamlico Sound. In the morning our ears were suddenly assailed by the sound of the very pack of hounds which attacked us before, in full cry after a panting deer. The deer, dogs, and huntsmen all darted across the road, just ahead of us. The face of the country being level, with here and there a straight, " cloud- capped" pine, and with no underwood, we hallooed and saw the cbase with great delight, far away into the woods. The deer was soon in their gripe, and although the scene was at the moment most animating, when it closed, I could not suppress a sigh at the fate of the inoffensive hunted animal.

We arrived late in the day at Bath, after travelling over a most sterile and desolate sandy plain. The dreariness was scarcely relieved by the appearance of a house, except a few miserable tar burner's huts. We crossed Pamlico Sound in an open ferry-boat, a distance of five miles. After landing, we travelled the whole day amid a gloomy region of sands and pines. The road was spacious, and in a direct line. The ma- jestic perpendicular pines, apparently towering to the clouds, imparted an imposing and solemn aspect to the scener;y. The only relief from this monotony, and the cheerless and painful silence we found, was in noticing the watchful and timid deer grazing in the woods. The moment they perceived us ap- proach, their long necks were arched, and their ears pricked up ready for a spring. Sometimes, however, they would gaze intently at us with a wild and anxious eye, and remain station- ary until we passed. We gave chase to a wild Turkey who maintained his equal rigbt to the road, like a true North Caro- lina republican, and in spite of our efforts he stretched away upon his long legs, far beyond our reach. The few inhabi- tants scattered here and there in the forest, subsist by the chase, burning tar, and collecting turpentine. In the latter process, they strip the trees, to a certain height, of the bark, by which means the turpentine is conducted into deep reser-

OR, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSON. 89

voirs cut in the trunk of the tree, whence it is collected. This IS called blazing the trees.

It was nearly dark when we reached the river Neuse. It rained, and the wind began to blow, yet we determined, con- trary to the advice of the owner of the boat, to risk the pas- sage of a stream two miles wide. Harwood, a high-spirited, daring fellow, persisted in urging the attempt, but we soon had reason to deplore our indiscretion. Our boat was small and conducted by two stupid negroes, one of whom was a female. The wind rose to a side gale, and as we advanced the storm in- creased. Our horses became restive — the night was intensely dark, and the sea began to break over the boat's side. At this crisis (having been accustomed from my youth to water and boats) I seized upon a broken oar to steer with, and implored Harwood to bail the water out with his hat, and steady the horses. Happily I caught a glimpse of a light at the ferry-house, and by it was enabled to direct our course. But for this for- tunate circumstance, we must have been bewildered on the river and almost inevitably perished, as the water had half filled the boat when we gained the shore, in despite of Har- wood's efforts. Although my tongue was silent, my heart poured forth its thanks for preservation to that Eternal Father who had shielded us, and into whose hands I committed my- self on mounting my horse at Providence. We rewarded the poor negroes, again mounted our horses, and proceeded on to Newbern, the capital of North Carolina, groping our way in the dark along unknown roads, and drenched by the heavy rains.

On our arrival, excessively wearied, and needing re- pose and shelter, we wandered in pursuit of quarters, from street to street, and were turned from tavern to tavern, every house being filled by French adventurers. At one of these

taverns, kept by one T , we were repulsed by the landlord

with so much rudeness as to produce a severe quarrel in the piazza, where we stood soliciting quarters. Newbern was the metropolis of North Carolina, situated at the confluence of the Neuse and Trent rivers, and contained about one hundred and fifty dwellings. It was defended by a strong fort and an armed

40 MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION ;

ship. , Previous to the war it exported corn, naval stores, bees- wax, hams, and deer skins to a considerable amount.

The next morning Harwood proceeded to a barber's shop to be shaved. I soon after started in pursuit of the same barber. I had not gone far before I met Harwood, his pace somewhat quickened, and with -one side only of his face shaved. He soon informed me that the barber had been impertinent, that he had knocked him down, and left him sprawling on the floor. We agreed that to avoid trouble he should push on, and that I should fol- low. He was soon on his way through the streets of the capital of North Carolina, in the ludicrous predicament I have described. I left Newbern soon after upon Harwood's track, and crossed the Trent by a rope ferry seventy feet wide. I journeyed the entire day alone, through a wilderness of pines, over a flat, sandy country, with scarcely an inhabitant to be seen. Towards the close of the day I found myself entangled among swamps amid an utter wilderness, and my horse almost exhausted in my efforts to overtake Harwood. As night closed upon me, I was totally bewildered, and without a vestige of a road to guide me. Knowing the impossibility of retra- cing my steps in the dark, through the mazes I had traversed, I felt the absolute necessity of passing the night in this soli- tary desert. Feeling no apprehension that my horse would wander far from me, I turned him to shift for himself. I then placed my box under the sulky, and with my pistols fresh primed on one side, and my hanger on the other, I drew around me my grego, and, prostrated on the ground along with these, my only companions, half asleep and half awake, I passed the night in no trifling apprehension of falling a prey to wild beasts before morning.

At length, to my inexpressible satisfaction, the eastern hori- zon began to kindle up, and gradually to brighten more and more into the full blaze of day. I found my faithful horse true to his allegiance, and within reach, I harnessed up, and press- ed with as much speed as possible out of this dreary retreat of solitude and desolation. My movements were somewhat accel- erated by observing a large bear stepping slowly along at a

OR, IIEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSO:^, 41

little distance from me. After several miles travellincr I regained the road, and in the course of the forenoon overtook Harwood.

We crossed Neuse river, and passed over a continu- ous pine barren to Wilmington, on Cape Fear river. This was a compact town, ten miles from the sea, and is surrounded by sand hills. It was defended by two forts, and two brigs of sixteen guns each.* It formerly exported large quantities of naval stores, pork, furs, &c., which it received by the river from the fertile country in the interior. The killing of deer by torch-light was a favorite amusement of the inhabitants of this region. A negro precedes the sportsmen, bearing a piece of burning pitch phie ; the foolish animal, fascinated by the light, remains stationary, with his head erect, and his eyes steadily fixed on the blaze. .The glare of his eyes expose him to the sportsman's aim, who approaches- the deer as near as he pleases. Thus it often happens among men- — that the unwary are allured by a deceptive glitter, are beguiled by false promi- ses, and fall victims to their own credulity.

On leaving Wilmington we crossed the Cape Fear river, which is here two hundred yards wide, and navigable by vessels of twen- ty feet draught. At Brunswick nearly all the houses had been de- serted from apprehension of the enemy. From this place to Lockwood's Folly, twenty-two miles, is an unbroken wilderness ; not a house, not even a wild tar-burner's, was presented to our view the whole distance. Fortunately forewarned, we had pre- pared ourselves with supplies to encounter this desert. At night we encamped at a wretched hovel, without floor or furniture. We luckily ran down a fat opossum in the woods, which, with sweet potatoes, made a fine repast. Hunger supplied the want of dainties. The opossum has much the taste of a fat pig. Our poor horses fared badly. They were compelled to stand tied to a tree, with nothing to eat, after the fatigue of a hard day's journey. We slept on a bare ox hide, with no covering but our clothes.

The next day we crossed Little river, the country continu-

* In two or three years afterwards it was taken by the British, and occupied by Lord Cornwallis as a point of retreat.

42 MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION" ;

ing to exhibit the same dreary and desolate aspect. The en- suing morning we passed a dangerous wash, at the north en- trance of Long Bay. Suddenly the ocean and several ships burst upon our view. The contrast was a great relief to our minds and eyes after travelling so many days over a waste of sand.

We rode along this bay for sixteen miles on the edge of the surf, upon a hard, firm beach. The swell roared and curled upon the shore, and as we advanced, the variety of sea- birds starting on the wing, and a school of porpoises rolling up their black backs on the surface of the sea, amused us as we passed along this beautiful scene. Sand hillocks ran parallel with the shore on our right, over which land birds were con- tinually hovering. We were alarmed and surprised as we en- tered on the circuit of this bay, to observe, as we thought for the moment, several men, with horses and carriages, at a dis- tance, swimming in the sea. We were soon, however, re- lieved by noticing an exhalation in that direction, which had produced the mirage. About half way across the beach we met a group of travellers, who proved to be General Mcintosh and suite going to the north to join the army.

We mutually stopped to exchange civilities and learn the news. Our minds had for several days been depressed in reflect- ing upon the critical condition of our national aflairs. Gracious God! how were we astonished and transported with joy, on hear- ing from the General that Burgoyne and his whole army were prisoners of war. In confirmation of the intelligence, he presented us a handbill, printed at Charleston, containing the articles of capitulation. We involuntarily took ofi' our hats and gave three hearty cheers in concert with the roaring of the surge. All considered this glorious event as deciding the question of our eventual Independence. In triumph we carried the joyous news to the hospitable seat of William Alston, Esq., one of the most respectable and affluent planters in South Carolina. We arrived at the close of the day, but were received with open arms, and entertained in the most sumptuous style. With music and his best madeira, we celebrated the great event we had announced, in high glee, to a late hour of the night.

OR, JMEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSON". 43

We had been cautioned to be on our guard against the at- tacks of runaway negroes, in the passage of swamps near Wiiigan Bay. As we entered the second swamp, fourteen naked negroes armed with poles, presented themselves in the attitude of hostility, across the road. Ilarwood seized one of my pistols and charged them at full speed, making the wood resound with his thundering voice. I pres&ed forward close to his heels in my sulky, armed with the other pistol. They threw down their rails and dashed into the woods, and we passed on without further interruption.

As evening closed in, we embarked in a good ferry-boat, manned by four jolly, well-fed negroes, to cross Wingan Bay, a distance of four miles. The ev^ening was serene, the stars shone brightly, and the poor fellows amused us the whole way by singing their plaintive African songs in cadence with the oars. We reached Georgetown in the evening. It stands on Wingan river, and is the second place of importance in the State. After leaving Georgetown we passed the Black river, and crossing a second ferry, travelled over Santee island.

At length, on the 18th of iN^ovember, 1777, the city of Charleston presented itself to our view. We left our horses and crossed Cooper's river in a yawl. I was delighted with the view of this splendid city, and the shipping in its harbor. After a seventy days' journey from Providence, having travel- led 1,243 miles, it was to me almost like the entrance of the Israelite into the promised land. I performed the whole route either on horseback or in a sulky ."''■

* At that day, and under the circumstances of the country, this was the most commodious and practicable way of travelling. A fact almost surpassing belief, in these days of stage-coach and railroad facilities. »

44 MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION;

CHAPTER, IV.

Orange Orchard — Fire at Charleston — Governor Rutledge — Makes Tour in Georgia — Warmth of Season — Gouging Match — Amusing Scene — Indians — Little Carpenter — Port Royal Island — Cotton Picking by Hand— Eli Whitney's Cotton Gin— Beaufort— Dr. Zubley— Silk— Tea — Savannah.

On my arrival I delivered the funds which had been confided to me, and which I had carried the whole length of my jour- ney, securely quilted in the lining of my coat, at their place of destination, and made the preliminary arrangement to carry out Mr. Brown's plans. I again crossed Cooper's river to the plantation of a Mr. Townsend, where we had left our horses. I here examined an orchard of eleven hundred orange trees, in full bearing. The fruit proved rather bitter to the taste, but exceedingly beautiful. In December one of Mr. Brown's brigs was burnt in sight of the town ; several of his ships had, however, arrived.

In the intervals of business I mingled, with delight, in the elegant and gay society of this refined metropolis, UjUder the wing of Mr. Russel, the consignee of Mr. Brown, a," gentleman of Nevv-England origin, but occupying a distin- guished position in the mercantile community of Charleston. My prospects were brilliant and auspicious, when a deep pub- lic and private calamity cast a dark pall over the whole. I had parsed the evening of the 15th of January, '78, with a brilliant party, at the splendid mansion of a wealthy merchant of the city. In two hours after we had left the sce'ne of ele- gant refinement, the stately edifice, the rich furniture, and all its gorgeous appliances were wrapt in flames. In the mid hours of a cold and tempestuous night, I was aroused by the cry of fire, and by a loud knocking at the door, with the ap- palling intelligence — " The town 's in flames." I pressed for- ward to the theatre of one of the most terrific conflagrations that probably ever visited Charleston. The devastation was frightful. The fire raged with unmitigated fury for seventeen

OR, MEMOIRS OF ELKAKAH WATSON. 45

hours. Every vessel, shallop, and negro-boat was crowded with the distressed inhabitants. Many who, a lew hours before, retired to their beds in affluence, were now reduced, by the all-devouring element, to indigence.

i\.rter laboring at the fire for many hours, I returned to my quarters to obtain a brief respite. I had scarcely seated myself before a man rushed in, exclaiming — " Your roof is on fire !" The mass of the conflagration was yet afar off, but it as it were, rained fire. When we had extinguished the flame on the roof, 1 thought it time to remove my trunk, containing funds to a large amount. Not being able to procure assistance, I was constrained to shoulder it myself. Staggering under my load, (a burden which, in or- dinary times, I could scarcely have lifted) I proceeded along Main-street. The fire had extended far and wide, and was bearing down, in awful majesty, a sea of flame. Almost the w'hole of this spacious street exhibited, on one side, a continu- ous and glaring blaze. My heart sickened at beholding half- dressed matrons, delicate young ladies and children, wandering about unprotected, and in despair.

I soon found myself prostrated on the ground, along- side of my trunk, by the explosion of a large building. Fortunately being uninjured, I hastened on until I reached an elegant house in the suburbs of the city. Without hesitation I entered it, and, seeing no one, went into a splendid parlor, deposited my trunk in a closet, locked the door, and put the key in my pocket. Early the next morning I went in pursuit of my trunk. I everywhere saw heart-rend- ing spectacles amid the smoking ruins, and the constant falling of walls and chimneys. I reached the house where I had left my trunk, which 1 then first discovered was' the residence of Governor Rutledge. A young gentleman answered my knock, of whom I requested my trunk. He eyed me with attention, and casting a suspicious glance upon my person and clothes, replied, that not knowing me, he could not deliver it. My face and hand had been injured, and my clothes torn in the confu- sion of the fire. I wasvmortified, but conscious that my ap- pearance justified his suspicion. I forthwith proceeded to a

46 MEN AND TIMKS OF THE REVOLUTION;

friend, borrowed a clean shirt and decent clothes, (my own being locked up in the Governor's parlor) got sbaved and pow- dered, and again proceeded after my trunk. I knocked with confidence, was politely received by the same young gentle- man, who evidently did not recall my features. I was ushered into the presence of the Governor. I stated to him where I had placed my trunk, and was apologizing for the liberty, when he interrupted me, remarking that the fearful crisis justified me. He continued — '' Sit down, sir — will you take a glass of wine ? My secretary informed me that a person called for the trunk an hour or two ago, but not liking his appearance he had declined delivering it." The Governor was much amused at understanding that I was the person who had called. I re- cord this incident to show the importance of external appear- ance to a man's success in the world, and more particularly, among strangers.

Having arranged my affairs in Charleston (for the occur- rence of the fire had totally broken up and prostrated my busi- ness operations) I determined, in company with a Mr. Bloom- field, of Boston, and Mr. Clark, of New-Haven, to extend my tour to the south as far as prudence should warrant. In pur suance of this plan we left Charleston on the 2'Jth of January, 1778. I transcribe a synopsis of my journal.

The road to Ashley river is delightful. We passed many elegant seats, with fine gardens and grounds. The road in some places is shaded by lofty trees, from which we were sweetly serenaded by the music of beautiful birds, offering up, we could believe, their evening praises to our common Bene- factor. To a northern constitution the heat is rather uncom- fortable, exceeding that usual to the month of May in New- England. Many of the early vegetables had already appeared. In this month garden seeds, with us, are ordinarily sown. A tranquil summer sky, fanning breezes from the south, the ver- dure of evergreens, the croaking of frogs and the chirping of birds, all indicated the advent of spring.

On this river are situated the choicest plantations, and the most elegant and numerous countrj^eats in the State. The

OR, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSON. 47

extensive marshes bordering upon this and other adjacent streams, had recently been converted into highly productive rice plantations, to which culture they are well adapted. In the evening of this day we were much annoyed by the quarrel of two overseers in an adjoining room, who soon gave us a fair (or rather foul) specimen of a genuine Georgia gouging- match. They rushed upon each other with the iury and ferocity of bull-dogs, and made eveiy effort to gouge out each other's eyes. We at length succeeded in separating them. This house afforded us neither rest nor comfort. The sheets were smutty, the rooms filthy, and literally alive with fleas and bed-bugs. We turned in with all our clothes on, and yet the ravenous fleas penetrated to the skin.

In the morning, as we were about leaving the inn, an old French officer rode up and tied his horse to the post, and passing us with a profound bow, entered the house. He wore a three-cornered cocked hat, a laced coat, a long queue tied close to his head, with a ribbon in a large double bow, bis hair powdered, and a long sword dang- ling by his side. He spoke only French. Immediately after him came up a negro riding on a mule, which, in despite of his rider's efibrts, dashed in between the post and the horse. In the struggle the horse's bridle broke, and away went the horse into the woods, with a heavy portmanteau dancing at his side. The Frenchman, no doubt, thinking it all design, (for he did not seem to comprehend a word of the negro's ex- planation) drew his long sword, his eyes flashing fury. The moment the negro saw the sword, he sprang off his mule, and darted for the forest, with Monsieur in full chase after him, vociferating most vehemently. At first we were alarmed, but perceiving the negro to be too nimble for bim, were exceed- ingly amused by the chase. Despairing of overtaking the lad, the Frenchman darted his sword after him, exclaiming — " Belitre — diable, &c. !" We soon after started, and saw the poor terrified black still scudding away, far ofT among the pines.

The next day we passed Pond Pond, and travelled over an interesting country, interspersed with fine pL.ntations. The roads are as level as a bowling-green, and generally in a direct

48 MEN AND TIMES OF THE EEVOLUTION ;

line. We noticed peas in blossom. Near the Ashepoo we observed several Indians seated on a log. We ascertained that they were the celebrated warrior Little Carpenter, king of the Cherokees, with his queen and several councillors, on their way to Charleston, to " brighten and strengthen," as he told us, in good English, " the chain of union." They were alternately whiffing out of a great v.'ooden pipe, which was passed from one to the other, whilst an elbow was rested on the knee, and the body a little projected forward. I seated myself by the king, and took my whifi'in turn, and finding him of a social cast, did not fail to ply him pretty closely with my Yankee questions.

We passed Barnard Elliot's magnificent residence, and those of other planters, in the distance, on avenues cut through the woods, and surrounded by their little villages of negro huts. The ist of February we had a succes- sion of showers, with heavy thunder, similar to our northern April weather. The next day we crossed over to Port Royal island. At the ferry-house, where we stopped for the night, a party of the young folks of the lower order had assembled, and willing to contribute to their amusement, as well as my own, I took out my flute, and playing some jigs, set them dancing, shuffling, and capering in merry style.

This island is about ten miles square. The land is generally poor, affording but a few rice plantations. The staple is indigo, which grows on a light soil. Some cotton is cultivated here for domestic purposes ; but as it is so difficult to disentangle the fibre from the seed, its extensive culture is not attempted, although it eminently flourishes in this climate, and is a most important article. Every evening we have noticed the negroes, old and young, clustered in their huts, around their pine-knot fires, plucking the obstinate seed from the cotton.*

* This, it is not necessary to add, was before the days of Eli Whitney, one of the great benefactors of the South. Mr. Whitney was a native of Connecticut, early distinguished for his mechanical genius, who visited Georgia in the pros- pect of securing a situation of private tutor. He was disappointed in the hope, and was received, almost in charity, under the benevolent roof of Mrs. Green, the widow of General Green. A party of gentlemen conversing incidentally on the

OE, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSON. 49

Deer and foxes abound on this island. Beaufort is hand- somely situated, and contains about seventy houses, besides public buildings, and is defended by a respectable fort, two miles below the town. We retraced our steps, and again crossed the ferry. At noon, stopping at a very decent looking house, which we supposed to be a tavern, we ordered our din- ner, wine, &c., with the utmost freedom. What was our amazement and mortification, when inquiring for the bill, our host replied — " Gentlemen, I keep no tavern, but am ven' much obliged to you for your visit." In the true spirit of southern liberality, he insisted ujDon our taking a bed with him on our return from Georgia. This incident exhibits the beautiful trait of hospitality, for which the south is so distin- guished.

On the 6th of February we reached the Savannah river at Zubley's ferry. At the same time Dr. Zubley and his son crossed the river from the Georgia side. Dr. Zubley, a very learned and eminent man, is a Swiss by birth, and recent- ly was a distinguished preacher in Savannah. Zealous in the cause of American liberty, he represented Georgia in the first Congress which assembled at Philadelphia, in September,

subject, were lamenting that there was no means of separating the seed from the cotton ; and remarked, that until ingenuity could devise some machine to effect the purpose, it was vain to think of raising cotton to export. " Gentlemen," said Mrs. Green, " apply to my young friend, Mr. Whitney, he can make any- thing." When the matter was proposed to Whitney, he replied that he had never seen cotton or cotton seed in his life. The subject was thus, however, suggested to his mind, and with tools most inadequate, and much of the mate- rials made by himself, in the course of a few months, he perfected a machine which answered every desired purpose. Thus, by the force of intuitive genius, one man called into practical being the staple of an entire country, revolution- ized its affairs, and added millions to its wealth. When the fact of such a dis- covery was known, the populace was so determined to possess the machine, that they broke open his house and seized it. Before Whitney was able to make his model and procure his patent, many machines were already in opera- tion. This violent procedure robbed the inventor of much of the benefit of his discovery. It was emphatically stated by Whitney, in a subsequent application to Congress for remuneration (and in which, by singular ingratitude, he was de- feated by the efforts of Southern members) "that his invention had been the source of opulence to thousands of the citizens of the United States, and that as a labor-saving machine, it would enable one man to perform the work of one thousand men."

4

50 MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION;

1774. This measure tended to weaken the chain by which a mighty continent was held in colonization by a little island thr ee thousand miles distant. Dr. Zubley informed us that he could not conscientiously sustain the cause of Independence, and in consequence, that he and his son were this day banish- ed from Georgia, and his estate confiscated. He expressed strong indignation at the ingratitude and harshness he had ex- perienced. Although much depressed and extremely agitated, his conversation was in the highest degree interesting and in- structive. He concluded the evening with an eloquent and affecting appeal to the throne of grace to vindicate the recti- tude of his intentions.

We had been constrained to stop the night before at a wretched hovel, kept by an old Irish ghole. We fared in the worst possible manner. The old woman was covered with filth and snuff, there was no light but pine-knots, and the room was filled with smoke, A decrepid, dirty wench was busy about the fire cooking our supper ; but we saw enough .to stay pro- ceedings, and contented ourselves with a meal of sweet pota- toes, peeled by our own hands, and pure water. Soon after we had finished our repast, the infuriated hag burst into our room, and seizing one of our whips, rushed into an adjoining bed-room, with a pine torch in her hands, an impersonation of fury. Here she applied her heavy strokes to the poor, helpless wench, who could scarcely crawl, with the most diabolical purpose. Knocking the negress down, she commenced pound- ing her head with the but end of the whip. Fearing she might commit murder, we arrested her infernal arm, when she turned the full battery of her BiUingsgate on us, swearing she

had a right " by J to kill her own nager if she plased." This

painful scene illustrated a remark I often heard at the South, that Northern overseers were the hardest task-masters, and foreign owners the most cruel masters. The relation between the native master and his slave, seems generally to be of the fondest and most affectionate character. At the dawn of the ensuing morning, we rejoiced to leave this den, after confer- ring our blessing upon mother Adamson.

OR, MEMOIRS OF ELKAJSTAH WATSON. 51

The next day we crossed the river and entered Georgia. We traversed a bad causeway, and fo^ the first time in several hundred miles, ascended a steep hill, and passed several rivu- lets running briskly across the road. This was a new and cheering sight. From the ferry to Savannah, a distance of twenty-four miles, we noticed many valuable plantations, where rice, tobacco, and indigo are cultivated with success. We also remarked extensive orchards of white mulberries, de- signed to supply silk-worms. The silk culture has taken deep root in this State, and will doubtless become an important sta- ple for exportation in a few years.* We crossed some small bridges, traversed several hills, and then entered Savannah, the capital of Georgia. We delivered our letters to General Wal- ton, one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence, Commodore Bowen and other gentlemen, which gained us early admission into the delightful society of the city. Savan- nah is situated on the south side of the river, upon a high sand- bluff overlooking the river, and commanding a beautiful view of the adjacent country, which is principally appropriated to rice plantations.

* 1821. Silk has long been cultivated at the north (in Connecticut) as well as Georgia, and it should now be pursued with augmented energy. Its successful culture would save to the nation millions of dollars annually, which now are ab- stracted from the country to pamper the manufactures of the old world. Another analogous interest demands the earnest attention of southern patriots. I allude to the tea culture. The history of this extraordinary herb is involved in much obscurity. China and Japan being the seats of its growth, Europeans have been excluded from any observation or knowledge of its mode of cultivation. It is ascertained, however, that it delights in valleys and the sides of hills afibrding a southern exposure ; that it is congenial to mild and temperate climates, grow- ing between 30° and 45' N. latitude, which probably corresponds to about 10"* less on this continent. It flourishes most on rocky land, and succeeds equally well on poor and on rich soils. Tea was first introduced to Europe in ICIO, and was then only used for medicinal purposes. It has now become almost a staff of life. From 1717 to 1726 only seven hundred thousand pounds were annually imported into Great Britain. The import of the article now, 1821, exceeds each year twenty millions, and is rapidly increasing. Thus the soil of China, and the industry of her people, is more productive to the nation than the mountains of gold and silver of South America are to Spain. The successful agriculture of China renders Europe an3 America tributary to her. Why should not the agri- cultural societies of the South turn their attention to this subject !

52 MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION:

CHAPTER V.

Rice — Cotton — Whitefield — Ogeechee River — Planter's Residence — Slaves — Face of the Country — Products — Health — Woods on Fire — Charleston — Fort Moultrie — Females — Departure — Sergeant Jasper — Night Adventure — Negro Sale — Tarborough — Halifax — Roanoke River — Horned Snake — Blazed Trees — James River.

The culture of rice and the process of preparing it for mar- ket are deeply interesting. Near the 1st of April it is sown in rows, about three feet apart, and by the 1st of June it be- comes from six to eight inches high. The weeds are then taken out, and water admitted by means of sluices, from some adjacent stream. The water is occasionally drawn off, and a fresh supply introduced. When in blossom, the rice presents a most beautiful appearance, the flowers seeming to float on the surface of the water, and perfuming the air with a most delicious fragrance. In September, when the waving harvest rises considei'ably above the water, it is said to exhibit a curi- ous and very rich aspect. After the grain is ripe, and the water drawn oft^, the rice is reaped and stacked in the manner of wheat. After threshing, it is pounded in mortars, ten or twelve in a row, each containing about half a peck. The pounders are lifted by a simple machinery, with the application of horse-power. After this process, it is sifted and cleansed for packing. When I considered the vast expense of preparing tlie swamps for the cultivation of rice, and stocking the planta- tions with negroes, together with the cheapness of the article, I have been astonished at the large fortunes which have been realized from the cultivation of this commodity. An acre of rich swamp-land adapted to the rice culture, will produce twenty-five casks of five hundred pounds each. The Georgia rice is confessedly the best, it being larger than that produced

I

OR, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSON. 63

in the Carolinas. The indigo of the latter is, however, de- cidedly superior to that of Georgia.

Cotton, as I have already observed, was then beginning to be cultivated for domestic purposes, as we raise flax and wool in New England.*

We decided to attempt the prosecution of our tour into East Florida. Previous to this, our curiosity induced us to make an excursion to the celebrated Orphan House, established by Whitefield. He passed and repassed the Atlantic repeatedly, traversing the extent of the colonies like a flaming meteor, constantly soliciting charity, as well in Europe as America, for this object, by the most energetic strains of the most power- ful eloquence, touching alike the heads and pockets of his de- lighted audiences.f

The avowed object of the collecting of these funds, was the establishment of an asylum for the numerous orphan children of the early adventurers to Georgia, who fell victims, and in impoverished circumstances, to the ravages of the climate. Their forlorn condition called forth the sympathy, and secured the patronage of Whitefield.

We travelled twelve miles through a succession of fine plan- tations, and were politely received by Mr. Piercy, an Episco- palian clergyman, who was left in charge of the property by Mr. Whitefield. The occurrence of the war, and the destruc- tion of the centre building (which left only the two wings standing) have frustrated the design of the founder.

Mr. Piercy showed us an elegant painting of the Countess of Huntington, the friend of Whitefield and patroness of this in- stitution. We found the family of Mr. Piercy highly refined and intelligent, and enjoyed their kind hospitality with much interest. Meeting people of their cultivation and delicacy in

* The sea island cotton, I have been informed recently, (1821) by a respecta- ble planter, was only introduced within the present century. The compass of a note will not authorize a view of the interesting history of the cotton culture since 1778, now, by far, the most valuable staple of America. The average of cotton exported in 1817,-18 and '19, was 88,705,850 lbs., and its average value $25,014,410.

t See Dr. Franklin's account of his experience.

54 MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION;

this remote and solitary abode, was the source to us of equal surprise and gratification. The religious duties of the evening were performed with great solemnity and impressiveness. At the ringing of a small bell, the negroes, with their children, all came in to unite with the family in tlieir devotions.

Mentioning our purpose of visiting Florida to Mr. Piercy, he dissuaded us from it, stating that it was not only in the oc- cupation of the English, but that we should also be exposed to the attack of hostile Indians, who were hovering about the borders. However ardent our desire to advance still farther towards the South would have been under other circumstan- ces, we, at length, concluded to limit our journey to the river Ogeechee. Mr. Piercy 's brother accompanied us on the expe- dition. After traversing a pine barren the greater part of the distance, we reached the river, which is about a mile wide, mantled on the opposite side by extensive forests.

Having travelled about fifteen hundred miles from North to South, it was with delight that I turned to the right about on the banks of the Ogeechee, and once more faced my dear native New-England.

On our return we deviated from our route to visit a wealthy planter, George A. Hall, who had urgently invited us to his plantation. We turned from our direct road into a muddy avenue, two miles in length, cut through the forest. At its termination, we found ourselves in an open space, occupied by a miniature palace, elegant in its exterior, and embellished by the most refined taste, in the midst of a noble plantation, and surrounded by a little village of negro huts. Everything in and about the house announced wealth and elegance. A highly ornamented flower-garden I saw blooming on the 16th of February, in all the glory and beauty of spring in New- England. In wandering over the grounds, we observed a large collection of negroes, seated upon rice straw, making a miserable meal upon boiled rice and pure water. It is truly astonishing how the slave can sustain life with this wretched pittance, and even appear in good health and condition, com- pelled to labor from dawn to night, through the long summer

OR, MEMOIRS OF ELKAKAH WATSON". 55

days, under the scorching rays of the intense sun, with no shelter for his head, and in most instances his black and oily skin exposed to its fall beams ; yet they seemed joyous and hap- py. In contemplating the wealth, and splendor, and magnifi- cence of the Southern planter, I cannot divest my mind of the idea that they are all produced by the sweat and blood of the slave.*

The face of the country in South Carolina and Georgia, along the sea-board, and from fifty to one hundred miles inland, is generally level, clothed with wood, principally forests of pines of immense size and height. In the interior the country rises into waving hills. On the creeks and rivers a deep allu- vial soil prevails, which is devoted to the rice plantations. In the interior, wheat, tobacco, and corn, are cultivated in great abundance. This region is healthy, whilst the territory bor- dering on the sea, is subject, during the summer and fall months, to noxious vapors exhaling from the low lands.

On our return to Charleston we had an opportunity of wit- nessing a scene of appalling, and yet extreme interest. Trav- elling after dark, we found ourselves in the midst of a forest on fire. For several miles the country was in a blaze. The wind blew fresh, which moved and agitated the fire, giving it the appearance of a sea of flames, rolling and convulsed. The gigantic pines, blazing and crackling, covered with fire to their tops, were falling with tremendous crashes in every direction. We extricated ourselves with no small hazard from the burn- ing and falling timber.

After an absence of nineteen days, occupied in a most de- lightful excursion, we returned to Charleston. This city is situated on a point of land, at the confluence of Cooper and Ashley rivers. Its harbor is spacious, and might conveniently contain five •liundred ships. The bar at the mouth, however,

* Northern men, in yielding to the instincts which revolt at slavery, and in- dulging in strictures upon its existence and atrocities, should contemplate the fact that the impulses of Northern cupidity aided its introduction, by the agency of Northern ships and capital. How many of the princely fortunes of New- England had their basis in the slave trade ! 1821.

56 MEN AND TIMES OF THE EEVOLUTION ;

does not admit of the passage of vessels carrying more than elev- en feet water. Although this circumstance affords some protec- tion against the approach of an enemy, the navigation is hazard- ous in tempestuous weather. It is defended (and was well defended the year before) by Fort Moultrie. Fort Johnson lies on the south side of the harbor, about two miles from the city. There are also three other forts for its protection, mounting in all two hundred pieces of cannon. Previous to the late fire, Charleston contained one thousand eight hundred houses, besides its pub- lic edifices.*

In Broad-street is placed a fine marble statue of the great Pitt, with an appropriate inscription.

Among the females of Charleston, we observed many ele- gant, accomplished women, but generally of sallow complex- ions, and without that bloom which distinguishes the daughters of the North. Perhaps no city of America exhibits, in propor- tion to its size, so much splendor and style as Charleston. The rich planters of the State live in almost Asiatic luxury, and usually, before the Revolution, educated their sons in Europe. f

On the 8th of March, 1778, we departed from Charleston on our return to New-England. Several gentlemen, with great kindness and courtesy, accompanied us to the ferry. Our company consisted of my former companion, Mr. Broomfield, Mr. Gibbs, of Philadelphia, and Captain Paul Hussey, of Provi- dence, accompanied by old Silas and the dog Watch, both of

♦ Before tlie Ilevolution about one hundred and forty ships were annually freighted at Charleston, Georgetown, and Beaufort, and principally at the former, with rice, indigo, tobacco, skins, and naval stores ; about seventy thousand casks of rice, and thirty thousand deer-skins, were yearly exported. Numerous eviden- ces exist that the whole region of the flat sea-board has, at some former period, escaped from the dominion of the ocean. Among these evidences numerous fossil remains of marine shells are everywhere revealed.

t I procured a passport from Governor Rutledge for my protection. I intro- duce a copy from the original, which I still retain as an interesting memorial of those times of trial and suspicion :

" Mr. Elkanah Watson is permitted to go from hence to Pennsylvania. To J. Rutledge.

all whom it may concern. Charleston, So. Carolina,

March, 1778."

OK, MEMOIES OF ELKANAH WATSON. 57

whom were with us in our Georgia expedition. Hussey we found a jovial, excellent companion, always unfortunate, but always cheerful, full of humor and of story, which he had col- lected from most extensive reading, and garnered up in a re- tentive memory. He always had a laugh in his squint eye, and a good story upon his lips. He named his horse (an animal as unique as his master) De Casto. Hussey's excel- lent wit and knowledge of the world, always secured us good fare.*

From the ferry we proceeded to Sullivan's island, to view Fort Moultrie. Here Sir Peter Parker was killed, in June, 1776, and his fleet disgracefully defeated, with the loss of a frigate, by raw and hastily-collected troops. The fort is con- structed of palmetto wood, a timber very similar to cork in some of its properties. Balls could not effectually penetrate it. The fort was then defended by four hundred and fifty troops, and mounted sixty-five guns. During the attack upon it, Ser- geant Jasper performed an heroic exploit, that will consign his name to posterity. In the heat of the engagement the American flag- staff was shot away ; Jasper leaped over the en- trenchment, and amid the most tremendous fire, restored it to its place.

We were overtaken by Hussey at the ferry -bouse near Wil- mington, he having been detained at Georgetown. He came in early in the morning, covered with mud, and jaded out with fatigue, giving us a most piteous account of his trials the night previous. Eager to overtake us, he had pressed forward through the pine wilderness in the region of Lockwood's Folly, and when night overtook him, he fell into a by-path, became bewildered among swamps, and at length totally lost. His horse failed, exhausted by hard travelling without food. For- tunately for Hussey, he carried flint and steel, and thus lighted a fire. He spent the night in fighting wolves, attracted by the light from the wilds, with pitch-pine flaming brands. At day- light he ascended a tall sapling, as he termed it, " to look out for land," and saw Wilmington and the ferry-house not far off.

♦ He was shipwrecked and drowned some years after on the coast of France.

58 MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION;

Whilst at Wilmington, I witnessed a heart-rending spectacle, the sale of a negro family under the sheriff's hammer. They were driven in from the country, hke swine for market. A poor wench clung to a little daughter, and implored, with the most agonizing supplication, that they might not be separated. But alas, either the master or circumstances were inexorable — they were sold to different purchasers. The husband and residue of the family were knocked off to the highest bidder.

Between Wilmington and Tarborough the face of the coun- try gradually changes, presenting more undulating land, and frequent brooks rippling across the road. It abounds in luxu- riant peach orchards. During our journey, we were overtaken by a dark, stormy evening, and were compelled to take posses- sion of a deserted log hut, where we soon kindled a fire, and encamped on the floor for the night. Tarborough is a small village, situated on Tar river, and will, I think, in time, become a place of consequence. The country around it is healthy and elevated, and much appropriated to the tobacco culture.

Halifax is on the Roanoke river, which, rising beyond the Blue Ridge, leaves Virginia fifteen or twenty miles from this place, and discharges itself into Albemarle Sound at Plymouth, a point sixty miles distant. The borders of this river are es- teemed the wealthiest region of North Carolina. Its soil is rich and highly cultivated, producing corn, peas, and tobacco, in im- mense quantities, and also some rice. We noticed vast droves of hogs ranging among these plantations. A Mr. Hall, a planter in this vicinity, produces, it was stated, annually, three thou- sand barrels of corn, and four thousand bushels of peas. Many elegant seats are situated on the margin of the Roanoke, although the district is esteemed unhealthy, Halifax contains about forty-five dwellings, occupying one wide street, and as- cending to a high sand-bluff. The society in this vicinity is considered among the most polished and cultivated in the State.

On our way from Halifax to Williamsburgh, Hussey's curi- osity exposed him to imminent danger. The creeks through

OR, MEMOIES OF ELKANAH WATSON", 59

this territory are infested by a most venomous reptile — the horned snake — whose sting is death. In passing a swamp we noticed one of them, coiled up in a position that made us sup- pose it dead. Hussey dismounted to examine it minutel3^ The moment his whip touched it, the snake coiled itself in an attitude of attack, its head horribly flattened, its eyes sparkling fire, its execrable tongue darting out of its mouth. After the danger was over, we laughed heartily at Hussey 's fright and discomfiture. This snake has sharp, fine teeth, but its subtle venom is embedded in a horn, tapering to a fine point, at the end of the tail, whence it is ejected. I was told that the poison was fatal to a tree, if it is stung by the snake when the sap is ascending.

A method prevails in this comitry of blazing the trees at cer- tain distances, which furnishes a guide to the traveller, even in the ordinary obscurity of night. This is produced by simply slashing a strip of bark from two opposite sides of a tree. The white spots thus formed, may be seen for a great distance in an open forest. We remarked the country towards James river to be thinly settled, and generally clothed with forests. We again crossed this river in a small boat, with a stupid negro ferryman. James river is a most majestic stream, second in importance only to the Hudson, Delaware, and Potomac. It receives in its course seven large confluents. It is stated, that before the Revolution its commerce embraced the exportation of thirty thousand hosTsheads of tobacco.

60 MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION;

CHAPTER VI.

Hanover Couit-House — Election — Manners— Fight — Alexandria — Poto- mac— Inland Navigation — Slavery — Washington City — Baltimore — Pennsylvania — Contrast — Peynsylvania Farmer — Valley Forge — Bethlehem — Moravian Ceremony — Continental Troops — Small-Pox — General Reflections.

In passing Hanover Court-House, Virginia, we found the whole county assembled at an election. The moment I alight- ed, a wretched pug-nosed fellow assailed me to swap watches. I had hardly shaken him oft', when I was attacked by a wild Irishman, who insisted on my " swapping horses " with him, and in a twinkling ran up the pedigree of his horse to the grand dam. Treating his importunity w^th little respect, I became near being involved in a boxing-match, the Irishman swearing that I did not " trate him like a jintleman." I had hardly escaped this dilemma when my attention was attracted by a fight between two very unwieldy, fat men, foaming and pufling like two furies, until one succeeding in twisting a fore- finger in aside-lock of the other's hair, and in the act of thrusting, by this purchase, his thumb into tha latter's eye, he bawled out " king's cruse," equivalent, in technical language, to " enough."

From Fredericksburgh to Alexandria, we found frightful bad roads. The latter place is situated on the Potomac, on an elevated plain overlooking the river. Its streets are laid out after the plan of Philadelphia, and upon a large scale in the anticipation of a great city. Considering its peculiar advanta- ges of position, at the head of the bold navigation of one of the noblest rivers of the world, I see nothing to prevent their anticipations being fully realized. The Potomac is sur- passed only by the Hudson in magnificence and utility. It rises far west, near the sources of the Monongahela. A com- munication is therefore practicable between the waters of the Ohio and the Potomac. I understood that the latter, with the aid

OE, MEMOIES OF ELEANAH WATSON. 61

of locks to pass three falls, may be made navigable for large boats to Fort Cumberland, two hundred miles west of Alexan- dria. It is ten miles wide at its mouth. Ten miles below this city, its majestic flood laves Mount Vernon, the sequestered seat of the immortal Washington.

The influence of slavery upon southern habits is peculiarly exhibited in the prevailing indolence of the people. It would almost seem as if the poor white man had rather starve tiian work, because the negro works.

On the 10th of April we reached Baltimore. After leaving Alexandria, we crossed the Potomac near Mason's island" to Georgetown. This place contains about twenty-five good stone houses, erected on the side of a hill. After leaving Georgetown, we abandoned, by mistake, the main road, and soon becoming entangled among plantations and by-roads, spent several hours before we recovered our route. t Near Elk Ridge we observed several iron works, and also a cannon foundry. Baltimore is situated en the Patapsco, and contains about six thousand inhabitants. The harbor foims a basin, around which the city is built. Heavy vessels load and dis- charge at Fell's Point, which is itself a small city. An immense iron chain is stretched across the harbor, for the protection of the town, which is defended by Fort McHenry, mounting sixty guns. A strong commercial rivalry will, it is supposed, soon spring up between Baltimore and Alexandria. It appears probable that the peculiarly favorable position of Alexandria wiW secure to that city the pre-eminence. We crossed the Susquehannah river near its mouth. This river rises from sev- eral sources in New-York, and after traversing Pennsylvania, discharges itself into the Chesapeake. It is shallow throughout its whole extent, and has not afforded any position for a city.

On the 14th of April we again entered the State of Pennsyl- vania, and travelled the whole day through a delightful coun- try, richly improved by the industry of its Dutch and German

* The present delightful residence of the excellent Gen. John Mason. 1821. t The scene of these wanderings was undoubtedly the locality now occupied by the city of Washington. 1821.

62 MEN AND TIMES OF THE EEYOLUTION ;

population. Our road lay along the heights of undulating hills, which stretched from the Susquehannah to the Schuylkill. Another range runs parallel to this chain. The valley between, and most of the slopes of the hill-sides are laid out into regular farms, and are under high cultivation. The verdure of the fields, and the neatness and superior tillage of the farms in the rich vales, were so grateful to the eye, alter being long accus- tomed to southern aspects, as to make us almost insensible to the bad roads we were traversing. The contrast, so obvious and so strong, in the appearance of these farms and of the southern plantations, will strike every observer, and can be im- puted to but one cause. Here we witness the impulses and re- sults of honest industry, where freemen labor for themselves. There we see the feeble efforts of coerced labor, performed by the enervated slave, uninspired by personal interest, and unim- pelled by a worthy ambition. These distinctions are percepti- ble even between Maryland and Pennsylvania, separated only by an imaginary line.

On our journey to Valley Forge, a heavy storm, and roads almost impassable, compelled us to seek shelter at the house of an opulent farmer. Here we were received with the kindest hospitality, and found our host an intelligent, sensible man. He had a fine library, and was well informed on most subjects. His house was spacious and neat, and well supplied with the comforts and substantial of life. Independence, wealth, and contentment were conspicuous in everything, within and with- out the house. This man was but a specimen of his class,*— virtuous, affluent, and intelligent republican freemen.

On the morning of the 16th, we reached Washington's camp at Valley Forge, situated on the heights of the Schuyl- kill. Here I met friends and relatives from New-England. The army continues yet in winter-quarters, the fourth campaign being at hand. God grant that it may be as fortunate as the last ! I spent a day in the camp, attending the reviews and examin- ing the condition and situation of the army. My heart bled at the recital of their sufferings and privations the past winter. Exalted virtue and patriotism, and the strong attachment of

OR, MEMOIES OF ELKANAH WATSON. 63

the officers to General Washington, only held the army together. The poor soldiers were half naked, and had been half starved, having been compelled, for weeks, to subsist on simple flour alone, and this too in a land almost literally flow- ing with milk and honey. Oh, these detestable tories ! I saw Washington on horseback, attended by his aids, passing through the camp.

Between Valley Forge and Bethlehem the country is well cultivated. The streams are spanned by stone arch bridges, and occupied by valuable flouring-mills. The country in the vicinity of the camp, and occupied by a tory population, was in a disorganized condition. The roads, infested by maraud- ers, rendered travelling dangerous. Arriving at our stopping- place for the night, we found it crowded with soldiers and wagoners, and a perfect Babel. We hired a soldier to guard our horses, and I fortunately secured a berth for the night between two drunken wagoners.

I again visited Bethlehem, and we remained a day to wit- ness an interesting Moravian religious ceremony, which was to commence before the next morning. Soon after midnight Hussey gave me a jog. I heard the distant music of a band. The night was dark and serene, and all nature was hushed in silence. We dressed and repaired to the Moravian Chapel. The men entered by one door, at the same moment the sisters were ushered in at the other, marching two and two, and pre- senting a ghastly appearance, with their peculiar dress and light white caps. As they entered, the music continued to sound. A priest then ascended the pulpit, made a short prayer in German, which was followed by an anthem. The Mora- vians then formed a procession, the men in advance, and the spectators following the females ; all marching in the dark to the solemn and slow music of the band, performing a dead march.

In this manner we proceeded to their burial-ground, where the whole formed a square, facing inwards, with the band in the centre. This cemetery forms an area of about two acres. The graves are elevated about eight inches. On the centre of each is placed a flat stone about eighteen inches

64 , MEN AND TIMES OF THE EEVOLUTION ;

square, upon which is inscribed a brief epitaph. A cahn, im- pressive silence prevailed, until the first appearance of the sun. Then all was bustle and commotion. The musicians marched along the spacious alleys, playing a funeral dirge. The priest was occupied in reading, in an audible voice, the inscription on the stone, now commenting, and now praying, the eyes of all being turned the while, devoutly raised to heaven. The whole ceremony concluded with a prayer, and the JVioravians again formed a procession, and returned to the Chapel. This ceremony, I understood, was commemorative of the resurrec- tion of the Saviour. The whole spectacle was eminently solemn and imposing. Our curiosity gratified, we left Bethle- hem,, and crossing the Delaware at Easton, entered New- Jersey. We met, in our progress through New- Jersey, Col. Van Schaick's regiment of the New-York line,* and numerous bodies of troops on their march to Valley Forge. The coun- try was badly cultivated, and thinly settled, and very much exhausted by the constant passage of troops. Our fare was very indiiferent ; one night we spent in a house, without food, and were obliged to sleep in a garret upon a pile of oats, with no covering but our clothes. In this house I noticed a woman sitting by a roaring fire, wrapped up in blankets, " to siveat out the small-pox," as they said. Her face exhibited the most frightful deformity ; what was once " the human face divine," was now a loathsome mass of disease and putrescence. Having been inoculated myself, two years before, at the dead of winter, in an open barrack, and not permitted to approach a fire, I prevailed on these ignorant people to remove her from the fire and withdraw the blankets.

I reached Providence 29ta of April, 1778, after an absence of about eight months, having traversed ten States, and travel- led nearly two thousand seven hundred miles.

* The organization of the Revolutionary army into lines of the different States, tended greatly to animate and foster that spirit of local feeling and State jealousies, which so much obstructed the progress of the Revolution. Wash- ington felt and appreciated the evil, but the existing form of government was unable to correct it.

OR, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSON". 65

Having, in this protracted tour, just completed throughout the extensive sea-board of the United States, devoted my daily attention to inquiries and a personal examination, and having habitually committed the result of my observations to my journal, whilst fresh in my mind, I can now take a general retrospect of the whole subject, and exhibit the impressions I have received,

" When the extent of America is duly considered, boldly fronting the Old World, blessed with every climate, capable of every production, abounding with the best harbors and rivers on the globe, overspread by three millions of souls, mostly of English descent, inheriting all their ancient enthusiasm for lib- erty, and enterprising, almost to a fault, what may not be expected from such a people, in such a country, and doubling in population every twenty-five years.

The partial hand of nature has laid out America on a much larger scale than any other country. W^iat are called moun- tains in Europe are hills in America ; rivers, brooks, trees, bushes, and lakes, are reduced to ponds. In short, the map of the world presents to view no country which combines so many natural advantages, so pleasantly diversified, and which offers to agriculture, manufactures, and commerce, so many resources ; all of which cannot fail to conduct America to the first rank among nations. This I prophecy. It must be so. In contemplating future America, the mind is lost in the din of cities, in harbors, and rivers, crowded with sails, and in the im- mensity of its population."*

Taking three millions, the number at this time, as a basis, and admitting our population to double each twenty-three years, the result in a hundred years will be sixty-two mil- lions of republican iVeemen, approaching one hundred millions,

* The above paragraph, marked as a quotation, was first published in Morse's Geography, in 1789, as an extract from my Journal, and after being republished in other works, in 1829 I read it in Dr. Hosack's Memoir of De Witt Chnton, extracted from " Tathani on Inland Navigation," an English work, where it ap- peared as original. I notice the fact as an evidence of unjust plagiarism.

5

66 V MEN AND TIMES OF THE EEVOLUTION ;

in the year A. D. 1900, which will be nearly equal to that of all Europe at the present day.

The sagacious statesmen of Europe realize these truths, and already dread the influence that the greatness and prosperity of America is destined to exercise upon the world. The Euro- pean possessions in the West India Islands will pass away like a cloud, and will be held as appendages to the American Re- public, or will be emancipated, and independent governments themselves.

Though European politicians may consider these events too remote to affect any portion of the present generation of men, still they will obstruct our progress by every means in their power. Their efforts will be as vain as presumptuous, and they will prove as powerless as an attempt to check the flowing of the tide. Their schemes will, in fact, be an effort to arrest the decrees of the Almighty, who has evidently raised up this na- tion to become a lamp to guide degraded and oppressed hu- manity, and to direct other nations, even the nation of our oppressors, to liberty and happiness.

OR, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSON. 67

CHAPTER VII.

Rhode Island — Newport — Providence — Plymouth — Boston — Marblehead — Salem New-Hampshire Lexington Climate — -General Re- marks— Painful Scene — Mrs. Rennals — Siege of Newport — John Hancock — James Otis — Count D'Estaing — Gen. Sullivan — Battle — Determine to go to France — Packet Mercury — Henry Laurens.

On my return to Rhode Island, the British forces were in the occupation of Newport, and the commerce of Providence was still obstructed and paralyzed by the operations of the war. Uneasy and restive in my unemployed situation, I still retained my travelling propensity, and visited during this time various sections of the State of Rhode Island.

After all my wanderings and observation of other parts of the Confederacy, I still look upon Rhode Island as one of the most delightful and interesting of the States. The year before the Revolution, it contained nearly sixty thousand souls. It produced butter, beef, lumber, horses, pot and pearl ashes, and two hundred thousand pounds of inferior tobacco.

Narraganset Bay, formed by Rhode Island on one side, and the fertile shores of Narraganset upon the other, and studded with numerous lovely islands, presents the most delightful sce- inery.

Newport is beautifully situated, and was a favorite resort of

Southern people, on account of its cool and salubrious position.

It had been one of the most commercial places in America, but

was then falling into decay. Its fortunes were waning before

he superior activity and enterprise of its rival. Providence.

This city had, within forty years, emerged from the obscurity )f an inconsiderable village into a great trading mart, that em. iraced a body of perhaps the most intelligent merchants on tbe lontinent. It contained at this time, about five thousand in- labitants. I proceeded from Providence to Plymouth. Before entering

68 MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION ;

my native place, I passed, for about four miles, through a pine wood, along a sandy road, — but hovv^ different from the pine forests of North Carolina. There, free from underwood, the trees, straight and majestic, stretch towards the sky. Here they are low and scrubbed, and matted together by briars and bushes. Yet, amid the dreary forests, clustered a thousand de- lightful associations of my boyhood.

I spent a few happy days (the happiest of my life) among my relatives, and in rambling alone about the vicinity of Ply- mouth. Every tree, rock, bush, and even the sand-hills, re- minded me of some youthful gambol. The visit to the house and the room of my nativity, which was in the hands of stran- gers, my father's garden, the spring bubbling up its pure crys- tal water, all affected me, even to tears. Here too, alone, I visited the grave of my sainted mother.

Plymouth is overlooked by a high hill, commanding a wide view of the ocean. When a boy, I recollect seeing from this hill a British fleet, containing three regiments of troops, on their way to Boston, to overawe and coerce her rebellious spirit,

I proceeded by sea to Boston. It was then among the first class of American towns, containing about twenty-five thousand population, and is situated on a peninsula, at the foot of a spa- cious harbor, defended from the sea by thirty-six small islands. The streets were irregular, badly paved, without side-walks, and descending towards the centre. The prospect from the beacon at the back of the town is very fine, embracing an ex- tensive view of the ocean, the harbor and the interior, Bos- ton is two miles lomr and a half mile broad. The " Lons: Wharf" is probably the finest quay in America, extending half a mile into the harbor, with a line of warehouses and stores upon each side.

Marblehead is singularly laid out amidst rocks. It is cele- brated for its fish trade, the school of a hardy and courageous race of seamen.

Salem, once the seat of the detestable witch excitement, was at this time a place of important commercial business, and

OR, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSOK 69

contained about four hundred dwelling-houses. The mer- chants are wealthy and enterprising, and have embarked spiritedly in privateering. Advancing northward, I crossed the Merrimack river at Dracut, and entered the State of New- Hampshire.

Oil my return to Boston, I stopped at Lexington, where the tragic ball opened on April 19th, 1775, and traversed, with no ordinary emotion, the route the British pursued in their re- treat.

I visited the old brick college at Cambridge, the most ancient literary institution of America, and from which the rays of science have been widely spread throughout New-England. I stood upon Bunker Hill, an hour, wrapt in meditation upon the amazing event of which it had been so recently the theatre. My mind's eye witnessed the British veterans twice repulsed by the sons of the Pilgrims, determined to be free, and with scarcely no weapons but their fowling-pieces ; the adjacent hills, the houses, the steeples, the shrouds of ships, covei^ed with twenty thousand spectators of the terrific scene, whose hearts were filled with the most intense excitement of hopes and fears. A spectacle of such deep and thrilling interest, America, if the world, never before witnessed.

On the 4th of September, 1777, I left Providence, Rhode Island, on my Southern expedition, and arrrived at Charleston, South Carolina, on the 13th of November ensuing ; thus, in a journey of seventy days, receding from a Northern climate, in the most pleasant season of the year, and enjoying through the whole journey an equal and delightful temperature.

On the 29th of January following I proceeded South to the Ogeechee river, in Georgia, the extreme Southern point of my journey, and on the 13th of February after, as I have remarked, the flowers were in bloom in that latitude, and the gardens in some forwardness, the peas being in full blossom.

I left Charleston on the 8th of March ensuing, and from that period to the first week in June, advanced northward, until I reached New-Hampshire, bearing with me the whole distance, the same advance of the season, the same bloom and frao-rance.

70 MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION;

The gardens of New-Hamp"' 're were in the same state of ad- vancement as those whic!,. I had left in Geoi'gia the four months previous. What a commentary upon the vast magni- tude and expanse of the nation !

How dehghtful will he such a tour, at the precise season in which I made it, when America shall have arrived at that stage of population I have anticipated in a preceding page. Perhaps no two nations of Europe exhibit a greater contrast in climate, in customs and manners, in their productions, and the physical features of the country, than the Southern and Northern States of America. Mutual antipathies and prejudi- ces predominated previous to the Eevolution, and we have had every reason to apprehend that, if not allayed by wise and prudent measures, they would have resulted in a dismemberment of the Confederacy.

The middle States observe a medium, alike in climate, in customs, and the face of the country ; neither so level and hot as the Southern States, nor so hilly and cold as those of the North and East.

The people of the Northern section of the Confederacy are generally a hardy, industrious, and frugal race. At the South they are less energetic, more indolent and imperious, but ardent, generous, and hospitable. I speak of the masses.

The fisheries, commerce, and infant manufactures are the sinews of the North. Rice, tobacco, and indigo, the resources of the South.

Eventually, it is probable that the North will supply the South with manufactures, and receive in return, provisions and raw materials. All the elements of a manufacturing peo- ple are incorporated in the genius of New-England. Its cli- mate, the comparative. barrenness of the soil, its salubrity, its waving hills and abundant streams, all point to its certain and inherent destiny.

Should an event so desirable be ever realized, and the re- spective sections of the great American Republic become re- ciprocally dependent upon each other, with our immensely augmented and increasing population, our vast surplus product

OR, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSON. 71

will, as China does at the presen ' lay, make the precious me- tals of all other countries tributai'^^ to our own.

Soon after my return from Georgia, I was painfully involved in, and witnessed one of those events of domestic trial and affliction, which constitute some of the most thrilling incidents of the Revolution.

Edward Winslow, a near relative of my mother's, had been a prominent citizen of Plymouth, and lived in great affluence and unbounded hospitality. He was, previous to the Revolu- tion, the royal collector of that district, and an ardent and zeal- ous royalist. His son Edward inherited his virtues and his political sentiments.

When the contest with England had assumed its decided as- pect, the son was compelled to escape to Boston, and seek pro- tecti*on under the'^British flag. He joined the army, and in the expedition to Lexington, was its guide, acting as aid to Lord^ Piercy. In that battle he had a horse shot under him. He was a manly, noble, splendid fellow ; generous to a faulty a gen- tleman in feeling, and elegant in'person. An only son, to bear up his distinguished name, he was naturally the idol of his father, as well as of two maiden sisters of rare accoraplisli- ments. His father remained in Plymouth, isolated among his whig relations, and deprived, by the disasters of the times and the approaching conflict, of every means of support, although accustomed to all the luxuries of wealth.

In the year 1776, the British held occupation of the island of Rhode Island. The son was there, in the capacity of aid to the Commander-in-Chief. His heart bled for the fate of kindred reduced to indigence in the midst of enemies. His parents and sisters felt the keenest anguish from their separation. The father and a sister came to Providence in June, '78, and soli- cited me, a mere youth, (so depressed was their condition,) to intercede with General Sullivan, then in command at Provi- dence, and obtain permission for him to have an interview with his son, upon one of the islands in Narraganset Bay. The chance of success appeared to me hopeless, but I plead in the cause of humanity with all the eloquence I possessed — first

72 MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION;

with Mr. Brown, to intercede with Sullivan ; then with his aids, with whom I was familiar; and ultimately, I approached the General himself, and had the good fortune to prevail.

A flag was despatched to Newport with an open letter, from the father to the son, appointing the time and place for the proposed interview. The place was the south end of Provi- dence Island. Lieut. Coleman, of the Virginia Artillery, a gal- lant soldier, who was killed at the battle of Camden, under Gates, was designated to escort tlie father ; and, at his solici- tation, 1 accompanied them. Sullivan exacted a pledge of honor from Mr. Winslow, that he woul^ make to his son no communications of a public nature.

We embarked in a cartel boat, at Greenwich. As the place appointed was nearly equi-distant from Newport and Green- wich, it was understood that the two boats should start at the same time. The father, sister, Coleman and myself, with five oarsmen and a cockswain, occupied one boat. We hardly opened the bay, with an uninterrupted view towards Newport, where there was a forest of British masts, when we discovered a speck upon the water, which Coleman, with the aid of a glass, pronounced a boat. On this announcement, the father became deeply agitated: tears of joy rolled down his furrowed cheeks. The daughter was equally excited. We descended rapidly with the tide and our oars.

The boat, containing a charge so precious to my relatives, approached nearer and nearer, each boat directed to the same point. A doubt no longer existed. We landed some minutes before the other boat reached the shore. The son rose in the stern, and waved a white handkerchief At this sight, Mr. Winslow and the daughter darted towards the shore, and the former would have rushed into the water, had not Coleman restrained his impetuosity. Oh ! had I the pen of Sterne to portray this pathetic scene ! but words recede from my feeble pen. When the boat had reached within ten feet of the shore, the son stood braced in the bow, prepared for a spring, and, in another moment, leaped half-leg deep into the sea. The three were in an instant entwined in one impassioned embrace, .and in deep silence.

OE, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSON. 73

The highest-toned feelings of the human heart were stretched to the utmost tension, and overtasked nature seemed exhausted. The spectacle was too sacred and affecting to be gazed upon, and Coleman seemed to forget his duty in not witnessing the interview. We walked aside, in silence and respect, while the boats hauled offshore to a little distance.

On our return to Greenwich, we spent part of the day with other victims of this destructive civil war, the beautiful young widow and two children of Lieut. Rennels. She was an Irish lady, in the bloom of youth, prostrated by grief and melancholy. Her husband, an officer in Burgoyne's army, was killed in the battle at Bemis' Heights ; while she, in company with Lady Harriet Ackland and other ladies, was protected in a cellar. The event has been pathetically described by the classic pen of Burgoyne.

From the period of ihe above interview until 1779, I was the medium through which Edward sent supplies to his father. I was much blamed by my whig relatives for my intercourrfa with them, but they were ever deeply grateful. They died re- fugees in Nova-Scotia.

France having acknowledged our independence, and em- barked energetically in the war, all America was rejoiced and animated at the appearance of a French fleet of twelve sail-of- the-line, commanded by Count D'Estaing, off Sandy Hook, in the summer of 1778. In co-operation with Washington, an attack upon New- York was supposed to be their object. In a few days, however, we were surprised by the approach of a detach- ment of 1,500 men from Washington's army, to Providence, where General Sullivan then commanded. Suddenly the French fleet appeared off Newport ; one or two British frigates were burnt, and the residue of the British fleet sought refuge in the harbor. At once, the whole country was all bustle and ac- tivity. The militia came pouring in from every quarter.

Newport was the point upon which the storm was to fall, and all supposed that the Royal army, of six thousand veterans, on Rhode Island, and the British fleet, were within our grasp. The American army was principally assembled at Tiverton,

74 MEN AND TIMES OF THE KEVOLUTION ;

opposite Rhode Island. Our Providence companies, with which I had again mustered, also marched to that point.

The army crossed over to the island, and amounted i9 about 10,000 men. Sullivan was an intrepid, although unfor- tunate officer. Generals Greene and La Fayette were also in command on the occasion. John Hancock was likewise present, in command of the Massachusetts militia. James Otis, a martyr to the cause of hberty, was there a strolling lunatic about the camp. The great and fervid mind, that first grasped the idea of independence, was then a melancholy ruin.

As I do not design to Vv^rite a history of the siege, I shall merely trace the outline of events. The British retreated, and our army regularly invested the town. General Sullivan re- ceived daily assurances that D'Estaing would enter the harbor, and land 3,000 troops, to co-operate with the American forces. The surrender of the British army seemed inevitable. Lord Howe, in the interim, appeared off the harbor with an inferior fleet, and D'Estaing pursued him out to sea, for the purpose of bringing him to action. On the ensuing da}^ there occurred one of the most terrific storms ever known at the season in this latitude. Both fleets were disabled and scattered. The French fleet gradually re-assembled at their former position. The ships were promptly repaired, and then, instead of prose- cuting the siege, sailed for Boston, leaving the army to its fate. Sullivan remonstrated in violent terms, and La Fayette ad- vanced every argument, and urged every expostulation, but the decision of the council of officers, convened by D'Estaing, was irrevocable. Had we been attacked at this moment of dejec- tion and disorganization, with vigor and promptitude by the enemy, the capture of our whole army was almost assured to them. An immediate retreat was ordered — the British pur- sued, and an engagement took place near Quaker Hill. Our company was posted behind a stone wall, and attacked by a corps of Hessians. After a sharp action, the British withdrew, and during the night we effected our retreat to the main land, without the loss of our cannon or baggage. Our retreat was

OR, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSON 75

most opportune, as General Clinton anived the day after with 4,000 men, and a formidable fleet.

On the 22d of January, 1779, I attained the age of twenty- one, with the wide world before me, and having been deeply disappointed in the expectations I had formed in respect to my establishment in life, I was induced to embrace proposals made to me by Mr. Brown and others, to proceed to France, in association with them.

I engaged my passage on board the Mercury packet, Capt. Sampson.*' This vessel had been built at Plymouth for the government, and was constructed for rapid sailing, being only seventy tons burthen, and expressly to carry dispatches to Eu- rope. She had been manned at Plymouth, and a part of her crew were unfortunate schoolmates and companions of my youth. The position and prospects of several, in boyhood, had been equal to my own. Such, however, is the inscrutable dispensations of Providence. Men arise and disappear upon the stage of life, possessing the same original advantages, and yet how diversified their destiny ! Could society, by a Divine decree, be placed on a perfect equality of position, and even talenst, the succeeding generation would present as varied an aspect in their condition, as the lints of the rainbow\

* The following year, Henry Laurens, President of Congress, was going out in the "Mercury," as secret emissary to Holland, when she was captured by a British frigate. Mr. Laurens threw his dispatches overboard. The act was seen, however, by an intrepid British sailor, who sprang into the sea from the frigate, and secured the papers. All our affairs with Holland were thus devel- oped, and in consequence England declared war.

76 MEN AND TIMES OF THE EEVOLUTION ;

CH AFTER VIII.

Sail for Europe — St. Georo-e's Banks — Porpoises — Whales — Take a Dolpliin — France — St. Martinis — Isle De Rhe — Manners — La Ro- chelle — French Vehicle — Postillion — La Vendee — Nante.s — Horse Patrole — Safety in Travelling — Amiens — Angers — Beggars — Pea- santry— Versailles — Lanterns — Paris.

On the 4th of August, 1779, we embarked on boai'd the packet, and fell down to Nantasket roads. My fellow-passen- gers were Major Knox, brother to General Knox, an English and an Irish gentleman.

The French frigate " La Sensible," from Brest, having on board John Adams, and the first French ambassador to tlie young republic, Mr. Gerard, liad dropped anchor about an hour before. We '^ent on board to receive their commands for France.

At dawn the next .morning we weighed anchor, and stood out to sea. The miglify ocean spread out before us, and the blue hills of Dorchester, and the numerous steeples of Boston gradually sinking in the li^'izon. Sailing within sight of my native village, this morniiig, my eyes were riveted to the spot until the faintest glimpse was lost. Adieu, my native shore > adieu!

The v/hole day, all hands were employed in clearing ship and stowing away spars and boats.

Although deadly sea-sick, I was delighted with the rapid flight of our little " Mercury " across the waves, with all our sails displayed. Some hump-backed whales appeared, and nu- merous shoals of porpoises were gamboling and playing about our bows.

The second day after our departure, we were off St. George's Bank, in a perfect calm. The sea was hushed and placid. We saw distant vessels with their sails flapping against the masts. This bank extends about fifty leagues. The

OPx, MEMOIES OF ELKANAH 'WATSOISr, 77

Gulf Stream sets rapidly across it ; and undoubtedly creates the formation, by the deposit of sand, scooped out of the shores of tropical regions, which it bears in its current to this place. The cod fisheries on these banks have been, since the earliest settlement of New-England, an unfailing source of wealth to her enterprising sons.

At dawn, on the 8th of August, we discovered ourselves within a league of a British frigate, bearing down upon us. We instantly wore ship, and the wind rising with the sun, the little Mercury soon darted away from her pursuer. The frigate then fired a gun to the leeward, in token of friendship, but as there was no trusting to professions of this character, in those depraved days, we kept our course. She continued the chase for several hours, but at length we ran her out of sight. This evening the western sky exhibited a most beautiful and gorge- ous illumination. The variegated and vivid tints of the gold- edged clouds, could be adequately copied by no human hand. This lovely display of Almighty power was deeply impressed on my mind, and remained, like the recollection of a highly brilliant picture, but infinitely beyond its influence. Sailing under a brisk breeze by moonlight, and our vessel laying low in the water, a flying-fish flew over our bows upon deck.

In a dead calm, we were amused by the appearances of por- poises and large whales, coming from the "vasty deep," spout- ing up floods of water. Suddenly, a school of dolphins appeared under our stern. Nothing can exceed the beauty of their fan- ciful and changeable colors, when the bright sun-beams play upon them in the water. I succeeded in taking one, but as soon as he left his native element, the beautiful coloring, in a measure, disappeared.

The dolphin is pronounced by sailors generally, to be poison- ous, yet we had my prize cooked with some precautions, and found him a sumptuous feast.

Off" the Western Islands, we were again chased, in a rough sea and stifl'gale. The result of the chase, for two hours, was very doubtful. Half the time we were almost under water.

78 MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION;

At length the wind lulled, we changed our course, spread more canvas, and escaped. We experienced a severe gale in enter- ing, as we supposed, the Bay of Biscay. It was the first time I had witnessed a storm at sea. I crawled up the companion- way to behold the sublime, yet terrible scene. We were quite snug — our spars well lashed. Our little Mercury sinking into the deep abyss, and mounting the white, curling waves, with ease and grace, seemed to bid defiance to the vast watery mountains, which every moment threatened to overwhelm her. We surmounted the gale without injury.

The following morning we saw land-birds, observed grape- vines floating in the sea — the color of the water changed. All these indicating our approach to land.

September 3d, a strong westerly wind wafted us, during the night, rapidly towards the coast of France, and at the earliest dawn, the man aloft cried out " land." The most delightful sound a poor landsman can hear.

We all hastened upon deck, when, to our utter dismay, the same man sung out, " A fleet a-head !" We at once prepared to surrender ourselves prisoners of war, and secreted our valu- able papers about our persons. Soon after, however, as the day advanced, he again cried out, "A city ahead, with steeples, and no fleet," — to our inexpressible comfort.

As the sun arose, we found ourselves nearing the coast of France ; spires and domes in prospect, and no hostile cruisers in the offing. A pilot came on board, and we soon dropped anchor abreast of the walls of St. Martin, a city of the Isle de Rh6. Our waving stripes had attracted general attention, and the ramparts of the city, fronting the sea, was lined with citizens and soldiers. Our Consul, Mr. Craig, with several of- ficers, came on board, our Captain and Maj. Knox receiving them in full rebel uniform.

We saw neither city nor port, until we approached the im- mense wall which guards the entrance of the harbor. Here making a sudden turn, we found ourselves in a fine artificial harbor, constructed of hewn stone, and crowded with vessels. We mounted a flight of steps, and through an archway ascend-

OR, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSOIS". 79

ed the quay, which was thronged by the populace, to see, as I afterwards understood, the North American savages ; for such was the idea entertained of us by the mass of the French people. After a sail of twenty-nine days, I was standing on a quay in France. What a transition !

Our consul conducted us to call upon the governor, who re- sided in a sjjlendid edifice, and who received us with great cour- tesy and respect ; and introduced us to several swarthy, black- eyed Frenc'h ladies, with richly-painted faces. For several hours I could scarcely walk, awkwardly lifting up one foot, and wailing for the motion of the vessel, and when seated at the governor's, it appeared as if the house was at sea. The re- freshing fragrancy of the land soon restored my equilibrium, and dispelled from my mind llie miseries of a floating prison, and the constant apprehension of a real one.

We strolled through the city with Mr. Craig, gazed at by the crowd, and followed by boys, from street to street. My own entire thoughts and attention were absorbed by the novel- ties around me : new faces — new objects — strange customs and language.

The clattering of wooden shoes along the pavement, the jackasses, young ladies astride of mules, cantering through the streets, and the appeals at every corner, " La Charite," — were all spectacles new and strange to my untravelled eye. At our consul's we were feasted with delicious fruits and dainties — being treated wath that kind of politeness so characteristic of the French.

Our destination had been Nantes, but having in charge des- patches of the utmost importance to the French Government, and our ambassador, Dr. Franklin, then at Passy, the gov- ernor advised us to proceed by land.

The Isle de Rhc is a small island, nine miles by three, and is principally devoted to the grape culture — from which is made annually between 20 and 30,000 tons of wine, and be- tween 3 and 4,000 pipes of brandy. It contains about 22,000 inhabitants. The citadel forms a square of spacious buildings, constructed of hewn stone. In the centre of the parade of St.

80 MEN AND TIMES OF THE EEVOLUTION ;

Martin's is a colossal statue of Louis XV., on horseback. Be- tween 30 and 40,000 tons of dirty salt is manufactured on the island, from sea-water by evaporation.

We found four mules at our consul's door, on which we mounted, and trotted briskly over the pavements of St. Mar- tin's, our ears constantly assailed by the cry of " Voila les braves Bostoncs," (there go the brave Bostonians.) from the populace. The appellation of Bostonians, Mr. Craig informed me, is given generally, throughout France, to the American Insurgents. The insurrection having commenced in Boston, they confound the whole nation with that city.

We proceeded across the island, in the midst of vineyards of ripe grapes, hanging in delicious clusters, to the very edge of the roads ; there being no fences or ditches intervening. The ferry is on the south side of the island. Our consul kindly accompanied us to Roclielle, six miles from St. Martin's. Near the ferry we viewed the venerable old Fort La Free, where the Duke of Buckingham was defeated in 1627, after an un- successful attempt on Eochelle.

We embarked on board of a long gabbone, with a half-deck, and about thirty passengers. Soon after embarking we were attacked by a furious thunder-squall and tempest of rain, which drove us all, for shelter, under deck. The women screamed — the children squalled — and a Roman Catholic priest, (an Irish- man,) swore most furiously in English.

After a passage of six miles across the bay, we doubled around a point of land, and were at once in still water. The squall subsided, and all was well. Thus it is often in the magic scenes of life. We passed two venerable castles at the en- trance of the harbor. The news of the arrival of the " Bos- tones" at St. Martin's had preceded us, and we v^ere soon surrounded by a throng of people, anxious to see the new allies of France. Rochelle is a very old city. The streets are nar- row and dirty. The houses are built of hewn stone, four and five s Lories high, with each story projecting over the other. The upper stories approach so near as to darken the narrow streets, and almost exclude the rays of the sun.

OR, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSON. 81

I occupied my first French bed in this city, and was surprised to see the immense profusion of feathers — bed accumulated on bed. It was not without an effort that I reached the soft summit.

Rochelle was a strong-hold of the Huguenots of France, who here sustained a siege of thirteen months, against the whole power of Cardinal Richelieu, in 1628. The Edict of Nantes, which had been granted by the great Henry, and con- ferred upon those Huguenots their civil immunities, was re- voked by Louis XIV. in 1685. To this event, and the perse- cutions which preceded it, America was indebted for many valuable emigrants ; who fleeing from oppression in the Old World, carried those sentiments of liberty to the New, which are now receiving their full fruition.

Early in the morning of the 6th Sept., we were stowed away, one before the other, in a vehicle of the most awkward and heavy construction. It was supported on two wheels, almost as large as ox-cart wheels in America, and drawn by three horses abreast, one supporting the shaft. The postillion was mounted upon a little bidet, and wore monstrous boots, hoop- ed with iron. His hair was powdered and frizzed, with a long queue hanging down his shoulders. An old cocked hat, which had been once laced, and a short coatee, completed his attire. Thus arranged and conducted, we rattled through the narrow streets of La Rochelle, and soon wer^ galloping, for the first time, along his Most Christian Majesty's highway. The pos- tillion, cracking his whip, merrily singing, and politely accost- ing all we met, seemed perfectly devoid of care.

From La Rochelle to Nantes is one hundred and five miles. In that distance we exchanged horses nine times, making from six to fifteen miles each stage or relay. This region is the La Vendee, whose population was nearly exterminated by the civil war of the French Revolution. A gen tleman, who passed through the country a year after the war terminated, assured me that the villages were literally without inhabitants ; and that the unburied bodies of men and horses strewed the fields. We passed several villages, and two or three large towns in our route.

6

82 MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION;

The country is occasionally hilly, with now and then a marsh on the seaboard ; but, generally, is a wide and beautiful champaign. We found the tavern affording very indifferent fare, with the exception of delicious fruit. Each traveller, I noticed, was obliged to supply his own knife.

The postillions have little mercy on their horses, rattling up liill and down, reckless of consequences. In going down rather a steep descent at tlMs rate, our shaft-horse fell with great violence, breaking one of the shafts iij the fall. The postillion, boots and all, were dragged down with him, and I was enabled to perceive tlie great advantage of this uncouth contrivance ; for he drew out his legs, perfectly uninjured, leaving his boots in the midst of the wreck. I was told a pair of these boots, with the long spurs attached, weigh about thirty pounds. We were compelled to trudge on a-foot. The after- noon, however, was delightful ; and we were regaled on the road by the sweet music of birds, and helped ourselves to the luscious grapes, clustering on the wayside. Our misfortune compelled us to stop at a miserable " auberge," in the little vil- lage of Chantenay. Just as we were preparing for bed, seve- ral officers arrived. The landlord soon rushing" into our room in apparent agitation, addressed himself to the Major. The result was, that although dark and raining, we must immediately proceed on, or risk the chance of detention, as a Seigneur had sent an express to detain all the horses. There was no rea- soning the matter of right, as we do in America ; but yield we must, to his Excellency. My companions were inclined to submit to this dictation, and we decamped, leaving our beds to the officers. We heard no more of the Seigneur, till some time after, we understood these officers* boasted how adroitly they had out-manoeuvred the American savages.

The country, as we approaclied Nantes, was in a high state of improvement. The roads were adorned with venerable orna- mental trees. We rode through the dirty streets of the sub- urbs for a mile, and then the river and city suddenly burst upon our view, with the stone bridges over the Loire, and its -branches, the shipping in the harbor, and a fleet of lighter ves-

OK, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSON. 83

sels pressing up the river. We traversed a bridge near the Exchange, where I saw a crowd of merchants, collected under the shade of some beautiful trees. The same evening I made an arrangement to proceed to Paris the succeeding morning, with my dispatches, accompanied by an interpreter.

Sept. 9th. Left !N"antes, and, in conformity with the usual custom in France, we provided ourselves with provisions and wine for our journey. The carriages were so arranged as to enable the passengers to sleep with considerable comfort, who are thus enabled to travel night and day. This custom, prob- ably, originated from the wretched accommodations formerly found upon the road.

The highways in France were everywhere patrolled, night and day, by numerous companies of armed horsemen. Robbe- ries were, therefore, extremely uncommon ; and even baggage, and small articles left in the carriage over night, were compara- tively secure. This immunity from petty thefts was owing, in a great degree, to the restraints imposed on the bigoted populace by the influence of their monthly confessionals. I was de- lighted, as we galloped through the city, with the appearance of the Loire, 'the bustle of active commerce, and the elegance of large white stone edifices, occupying the islands, which are embraced in the city, and situated on the public squares.

Late in the evening we reached Ancenis, a considerable town, of 5,000 inhabitants, situated on the borders of the Loire. The next day we passed over hills, through vales, enlivened by numerous herds of fine cattle, and through many considerable villages, to the great city of Angers, containing a population of 60,000, who were engaged in extensive manufactures, especially that of sail-duck, for the royal navy. We travelled the two succeeding days 213 miles, and on the third, at noon, Sept. 12th, I entered the city of Paris, the capital of the world, as the Parisians assert.

The roads were excellent, ornamented near the towns by vis- tas of trees. From La Fleche to La Loupe, a distance of 90 miles, the country is generally hilly, its principal productions wheat and grapes. The pastures are luxuriant in the valleys,

84 MEN AND TIMES OF THE EEVOLUTION;

i

and animate with cattle ; while the eminences are whitened ' with coarse woolled sheep, of an inferior quality. '■

From Dreux to Paris, a distance of fifty miles, the roads are : paved. The country is beautiful and luxuriant. Venerable < Roman towers — Gothic cathedrals — noblemen's seats — and i flourishing towns and villages, all conspired to give animation i and interest to our journey. Yet, the universal and disgusting ; prevalence of street-beggary was in strange, though strong con- i trast, with all this magnificence and apparent prosperity. Every village and town swarmed with vociferous beggars.'' Every hill seemed occupied with its droves of paupers and va- i grants, ready to assail the traveller as he ascends it. I am as- ! tonished, that a people so full of expedients as the French,! have not devised some system to correct this burning shame to i their national character. At a small village, we passed in the i afternoon, 1 found myself in the midst of a little host of dwarf; beggars, in rags, and most loathsome in their appearance, all ' demanding, in a vociferous chorus, " La Charite, La Charitd ! | au nom de Dieu !" and, with tattered hats and caps, pressing up j to my very face. I

The labor of the field was performed by a degraded and ignor- j ant peasantry, the tenants of the nobles and the clergy, who | held two-thirds of the soil of France.

At Versailles, the approach to which is distinguished by a ; highly-cultivated country and delightful roads, we passed the | magnificent palace of the king — entered the public square : through a gate of the city — changed horses, and pushed for- ward to the capital.

This being the last stage, and in the track of royalty, was call- ed the post-royal, and, in consequence, we had to pay double , fare, but were compensated by having a postillion dressed like : a gentleman, with an uncommonly long queue, and his hair friz- j zed and powdered, nay, perfumed. '

The road from Versailles to Paris, a distance of twelve i miles, was superb — spacious — well-paved, — ornamented with | avenues of trees, and lighted by large lamps, suspended over | the centre of the road, with double reflectors, casting a strong :

OR, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSON. 85

light in both directions. The road was all animation, thronged with foot passengers and carriages of every description. We rode along the banks of the Seine, in approaching Paris, and were stopped at the barrier, and our baggage inspected.

The first object which fixed my attention, was a statue of Louis XIV. Next, I was attracted by the superb royal gar- dens— the Tuilleries — near which we crossed the river on the Pont Neuf, opposite the Louvre, and were soon landed at the Hotel d'York, Fauxbourg St. Germain.

86 MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION;

CHAPTER IX.

Dr. Franklin — Count De Vergennes — King and Queen — French Dinner and Manners — Paris — Gates — Police — Manufactures — Louvre — Dr. < Franklin's Standing and Influence — Notre Dame — St. Germain's — Marlie — St. Cloud's — Elysian Fields — City of Orleans — Paved Road — Vineyards — Peasantry — Forest — Fuel of France — Canals— Orleans — Burgundy — Languedoc — Blois — Illumination — Grand Causeway — Night Travelling — Roman Work — Tours — Angers.

Immediately after shaking off the dust of travel, 1 proceeded with my dispatches to Dr. Franklin, at Passy. I was delighted to come into contact with this great man, of whom I had heard familiarly from my cradle.*

At his request, I repaired to the Count De Vergennes, Prime Minister of France, with the dispatches, bearing a line of in- troduction from Dr. Franklin. I was received by that accom- plished statesman with great civility. Having taken a bird's- eye view of the splendid palace and gardens of Versailles, I expressed a wish to the Count's Secretary, to see the Royal family ; he accompanied me to the Royal Chapel, where they were about to engage in the performance of religious exercises. We entered into the body of a middle-sized, but most magnifi- cent church, by a door facing the gallery, in the midst of an . audience, all standing. Soon after, the King and Queen en- tered the gallery by a side door, and seated themselves in front, under a rich canopy. On their entrance, the music resounded, and High Mass forthwith was performed. They both appeared absorbed in the religious solemnities.

The King's person was somewhat robust, with a full face, Ro- man nose, and placid countenance. The Queen had an elegant

* His image is vividly impressed on my mind, and is well delineated in Trumbull's picture of the Declaration of Independence. (1820.)

OR, MEMOIES OF ELKANAH WATSON. 87

person, a fine figure, and imposing aspect, and florid complex- ion, with bright grey eyes, full of expression,

The ensuing day, I returned to Passy, to dine, by invitation, with Dr. Franklin. At the hour of dinner, he conducted me across a spacious garden of several acres, to the princely resi- dence of M. Le Ray de Chaumont.* This was the first occa- sion of my dining in a private circle in Europe, and being still in my American style of dress, and ignorant of the French language, and pi-epared for extreme ceremony, I felt exceedingly embarrassed.

We entered a spacious room, I following the Doctor, where several well-dressed persons (to my unsophisticated American eyes gentlemen) bowed to us profoundly. These were servants. A folding-door opened at our approach, and presented to my view a brilliant assembly, who all greeted the wise old man in the most cordial and affectionate manner. He introduced me as a young American just arrived. One of the young ladies approached him with the familiarity of a daughter, tapped him kindly on the cheek, and called him " Pa-pa Franklin."

I was enraptured with the ease and freedom exhibited in the table intercourse in France. Instead of the cold ceremony and formal compliments, to which I have been accustomed on such occasions, here all appeared at ease, and well sustained. Some were amusing themselves with music, others in singing. Some were waltzing, and others gathered in little groups, in conversation. At the table, the ladies and gentlemen were mingled together, and joined in cheerful conversation, each se- lecting the delicacies of various courses, and drinking of deli- cious light wines, but with neither toasts nor healths.

The lady of the house, instead of bearing the burden and in- convenience of superintending the duties of the table, here par- ticipates alike with others in its enjoyment. No gentlemen, I

* The son of this opulent French gentleman, bearing his name, is now a dis- tinguished citizen of Jefferson county, N. Y., and the patriotic President of its- Agricultural Society. (1831.)

88 MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION;

was told, would be tolerated in France, in monopolizing the conversation of the table, in discussions of politics or religion, as is frequently the case in America. A cup of coffee ordinari- ly terminates the dinner.

I trust that our alliance and intercourse with France may enable us, as a nation, to shake off the leading-strings of Brit- ain— the English sternness and formality of manner, retaining, however, sufficient of their gravity, to produce, with French ease and elegance, a happy compound of national character and manners, yet to be modeled. The influence of this alli- ance will tend to remove the deep prejudice against France.

1 remained in Paris fourteen days. Were I to detail all my adventures — the strange sights I saw, and my reflections in comparing the customs and aspect of France and America, I should occupy too much space. I shall condense from the mass of my journals, a few remarks illustrating my observa- tions during that interesting period.

Paris was then about six miles in circumference, nearly form- ing a circle, and bisected by the Seine. It is happily situated in a temperate climate, and in the heart of a fertile country, richly cultivated. It has a water communication with the sea by the canal of Orleans, and the river Loire. The Seine is navigable by large boats, to Havre-de-Grace on the British Channel. The city is built of hewn stone, and contained about twenty-six thousand houses, from four to seven stories high, and eight hundred thousand inhabitants.

At every entrance to the city, there was a gate, where carria- ges entering were inspected. A guard of eight hundred Swiss patrole the city night and day. The admirable organization of the police of Paris, was the astonishment of all Europe. Thefts are detected, and stolen goods recovered, in a manner that is incredible. The late Chancellor Livingston informed me, that either himself or a friend, lost a watch, and left its number and description with the police. It was restored to him by the police, after a delay of eight months, the watch having been traced to Rome.

OR, MEMOIES OF ELKAKAH WATSON. 89

The manufactures of Paris were extensive. That of tapestry unequalled in the world. The fabrics of Paris were generally of the lighter and more costly kinds— as satins, velvets, ribbons, &c.

This immense city, having no maritime commerce, derives most of its wealth and support from its political consequence.

Having no business to occupy my time during the few pre- cious days whilst I was delayed for the dispatches to be con- veyed to the " Mercury,", which lay at Nantes awaiting them, I took in pay a respectable servant, dressed like a gentleman, and also a carriage in accordance with the custom of the place, and devoted every hour to the examination of objects of interest in and about Paris. In the contemplation of these new and attractive scenes, I was constantly bewildered in astonishment and admiration.

The first morning after this arrangement, I found my recep- tion room occupied by several men. I at once supposed them to be of the police, and whilst I was ruminating as to the prob- able occasion of the visit, a portly gentleman advanced, and drawing a tailor's measure from his pocket, unravelled the mys- tery. They were mechanics, introduced by the agency of Monsieur Blanchard, my servant, who doubtless participated in the contributions thus levied on my pockets.

Among the public buildings I examined at Paris, with inter- est, the Louvre was conspicuous. It was erected by Louis XIV., and faces the Tuilleries on one side, and the Seine at the Pont Neuf. It is a most magnificent pile of buildings, forming a large square.

In a gallery of paintings in the Louvre, I was much gratified in perceiving the portrait of Franklin near those of the King and Queen, placed there as a mark of distinguished respect and, as was understood, in conformity with royal directions. Few foreigners have been presented to the Court of St. Cloud who have acquired so much popularity and influence as Dr. Franklin. I have seen the populace attending his carriage in the manner they followed the King's, His venerable figure, the

90 MEN AND TIMES OF THE EEVOLUTION ;

ease of his manners, formed in an intercourse of fifty years with the world, his benevolent countenance, and his fame as a philosopher, all tended to excite love, and to command influence and respect. He had attained, by the exercise of these quali- ties, a powerful interest in the feelings of the beautiful Queen of France. She, at that time, held a strong political influence. The exercise of that influence, adroitly directed by Frank- lin, tended to produce the acknowledgment of our Indepen- dence, and the subsequent efficient, measures pursued by France in its support.

The old Gothic Church of Notre Dame is an object of strong interest. It has braved the storms of nature, and the rageof wars, for centuries. It is about four hundred feet long. Its painted windows, of immense size, and the superb decoration of the altar, excited my strongest admiration. A spacious gal- lery surrounds this noble edifice, supported by one hundred and eight fluted columns of marble. We ascended to the summit of one of the towers, where I liad a commanding view of all Paris ; the vast population of the city, that thronged the streets, in all their pride, ambition, and pomp, seemed like the merest pigmies.

I carefully examined all the public edifices of Paris ; but they have been so often and so elaborately described, that I have concluded not to transcribe from my journals the minute de- scriptions they contain. The " Hospital des Invalides" is an imposing structure, and deeply interests the benevolent feelinp's of the heart. It is one of the noblest monuments of

O

the reign of " Louis le Grand." It occupies an open space fronting the Seine. One of the most splendid churches of Paris is devoted to the invalids. Several buildings, forming five squares, are appropriated to the soldiers, and an equal num- ber, of larger dimensions, to the officers. At this asylum 3,200 invalids were then quartered, in comfort and repose. I spent half a day in viewing superb paintings, commemorative of the wars and battles of Louis, and the beautiful marble ornaments, with the paintings in the dome of the church. The Sarbonne contains Cardinal Richelieu's celebrated monument, represent-

OE, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSON. 91

ing him in a sitting posture, with figures, as large as life, one supporting him and the other reclining at his feet — ^exe- cuted in the most exquisite style, from a solid block of dark grey marble.

The garden of the Tuilleries is an extensive public promenade, or garden, laid out parallel with the river, and fronting the palace of the Tuilleries. Next to the palace is situated a large flower- garden, embellished by small circular ponds — ^jets d'eau in full play — various statues of white marble — spacious gravel walks, and ornamented by venerable forest trees, which afford a de- lightful resort to all Paris.

I often attended the theatre. Having seen no other, I can make no comparisons. Doctor Franklin, however, assured me that the English excel in tragedy, whilst the French surpass them in the opeYa, comedy, farce, and pantomime. The popu- lace of Paris could hardly exist without tlie resource of the theatre, to beguile the long winter evenings. When I had be- come able to observe and understand the gross double en- tendre and shameful indecencies, whicli characterized their performances, 1 confess they shocked my American modesty ; and I deeply wonder that a refined woman should permit her- self to hear and witness such revolting spectacles. Custom, however, disguises and tolerates all things.

The " Palais Royal," belonging to the Due de Chartres, of the Royal family, was but a mass of moral corruption. The magnificent garden was a public walk, and the splendid galleries of paintings were the chief attractions. I saw one large piece, representing the Descent from the Cross, which an English no- bleman offered to cover with guineas, as its price, and was re- fused by the Due. The Luxembourg was one of the most gorgeous and magnificent structures in Paris.

At Marly I examined the once favorite palace of Louis XIV. The walls were ornamented with the rich tapestry of the Gob- lins, representing, in bright colors, the feats of Don Quixote. At this place existed the complicated and heavy machinery for forcing the water of the Seine up a hill, into an aqueduct, car- rying it seven hundred feet, over a valley, supported by thirty-

92 MEN AND TIMES OF THE EEVOLUTION ;

nine arches, which conducts it towards Versailles. The gar- dens of Marly are very spacious, situated between two hills, the sides of which appear to be covered with natural shrub- bery and groves. In these groves, as well as in the garden, are cascades, fountains, and statues. The artificial cascades are very beautiful and magnificent.

Having been invited to the wedding of Mr. Williams, our American Agent at Nantes, and^ I think, the nephew of Doct. Franklin, which was to be celebrated at St. Germain's, twelve miles from Paris, I proceeded to Passy on foot, to accompany the- ambassador, on the occasion. He was entering his carriage in the courtyard when I arrived, and Mr. Williams and myself were supplied with saddle-horses from his stables. Our route led us by the Madrid Palace, (the residence of Francis I., after his return from Spain,) and through the beautiful forest of the " Bois du Boulogne." We crossed the Seine by a fine stone bridge, and traversed a long stretch of woodland, where the king often hunts ; and, after ascending, by a paved road, up a steep acclivity, from whence we commanded a most enchant- ing view, we reached the residence of Mr. Alexander, the father of the bride, at St. Germain's. Here I dined with Dr. Frank- lin, the Mayor of Nantes, and other distinguished guests ; and after dinner visited the palace, long the residence of James II., in his exile, and a favorite retreat of Louis XIV., as well as of the present royal family. The gardens are magnificent ; and the noblest promenade in Europe, probably, is on the grand terrace, upon the summit of the hill. The river Seine mean- ders at the base of the mountain. Five thousand acres of woodland spreads along the valley, studded here and there with villages. Mr. Alexander was formerly an eminent banker in Scotland ; a man of distinguished talents, and on terms of intimacy with Dr. Franklin. He was regarded here as a secret emissary of the British Government.

The Sunday following I again dined with Dr. Franklin, in a numerous mixed company of Americans, and literary and mili- tary men of France : all equally admiring this wonderful man — eminent almost equally as a statesman and a philosopher.

OR, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH "WATSON. 93

After dinner I proceeded, with the young gentlemen, to the highly-celebrated gardens and palace of St. Cloud. They are near the Seine, and belonged to the Duke of Orleans. There were many fine paintings in the galleries ; but my attention was more directed to the beautiful garden, filled with cascades, jets d'eau from the mouths of animals, throwing it even to the tops of the lofty elms, and the broad alleys, filled with gay assem- blages. On our return to Paris we passed the Elysian Fields, formed by four spacious avenues, through noble elms, and each thronged by the giddy population of Paris, embracing all ranks and conditions. Some were dancing in circles, indiscrimi- nately mingled, to the music of the violin. Sunday was the hey- day of French enjoyment, a day of recreation and pleasure. In the morning they devoutly attended Mass, and devoted the rest of the day to the theatre, ball, and every other species of amusement.*

In the suburbs of Paris I was conducted into a subterranean labyrinth, the construction of which tradition imputes to the Romans, in their labors to obtain stone for building purposes. I wandered two hours by torch-light in this deep and dark abyss. Brilliant and sparkling petrefactions hung, like icicles, from the roof and sides.

Having received the despatches for America, both from Dr. Franklin and the French Government, I proceeded. Sept, 25th, 1779, on my return to Nantes, accompanied by my interpreter. By the advice of Dr. Franklin I returned by the way of Orleans, along the banks of the Loire, which he represented to be the most interesting and charming route in Europe.

The road from Paris to Orleans, a distance of ninety-four miles, was a continued pavement, formed by large blocks of stone. The country is level generally, and no trees or bushes intercepting the prospect, our view extended as far as the eye

♦ I have noticed a striking condescension and courtesy, of the rich and power- ful in France, in their intercourse with the lower classes. Sailors, soldiers, and servants, appear to be on the most familiar terms with their officers and masters. These manners, undoubtedly, are formed by the warm and benevolent feelings of the French people.

94: MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION;

could reach, over boundless vineyards and wheat fields. There being no fences along the road, the grapes hung in delicious clus- ters within our reach the whole day. This apparent liberality to the traveller, secures the interior of the vineyards from dep- redation. Would not the farmers of America be profited by adopting this wise and benevolent policy, and planting fruit- trees along the margin of the roads ?

Over this extensive prospect, we saw the vineyards every- where dotted with peasants, staggering under their loads of grapes, which they bear in large baskets upon their backs. The peasantry of France possess no property, and are but a lit- tle elevated above the condition of serfs. They live on " soup maigre," coarse black bread, and a small wine about equal to cider. Yet they are always cheerful, and sing and dance over the cares and troubles of life, with light hearts and half-filled stomachs.

The forest of Orleans contains the largest territory occupied as woodland, in the kingdom. It embraces about fifteen thou- sand acres, and belongs to the Duke of Orleans, who, it is said> realizes about $20,000 annually, from the sale of decaying wood. We rode through part of Oiis forest, towards the close of the day, and I felt myself almost restored to the woodlands of America.

In France, wood is used for fuel, almost universally. The forests of the kingdom are under municipal regulation, so as to secure the growth of wood equal to the consumption of the country. The cuttings of the vineyards in the autumn, afTords a considerable supply of fuel to the peasantry. Even in this glowing and rich region of France, I noticed the unmitigated prevalence of street beggars and vagrants.

Near Orleans, at the small village of Pont Morant, commen- ces the Orleans canal,^ which connects the Seine with the Loire, by a water communication of thirty miles. Its construc- tion began in 1675. It forms a junction with the Burgundy canal, near the town of Mont Garnis. The latter also connects the above mentioned rivers. In high water, fleets of large

OR, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSON. 95

boats ascend the Loire from Nantes, and proceed by the Or- leans canal to Paris. Before seeing the canal, which was the first I ever examined, I had my attention tmnied to the subject of the French canals, by Dr. Franklin. In relation to the great canal of Languedoc, which unites the Bay of Biscay with the Mediterranean, he informed me that it was projected by Riquet, in 1661, and cost two millions of crowns ; it is conveyed by aqueducts over deep valleys, and in one place is conducted along the side of a mountain, being supplied in its course by large reservoirs, constructed on the tops of the mountains. It passes through one mountain by an artificial tunnel of seven hundred and twenty feet. It is six hundred and thirty-nine feet high at the summit level, and descends towards the Mediterranean by a flight of forty-five locks. Hav. ing derived immense benefit from this stupendous work, the government (Dr. Franklin informed me) had in contemplation the construction of othet similar works, at the close of the war.

Orleans was a large city, containing many elegant public and private buildings, but its streets were filthy, badly paved, and narrow. It was the great emporium of East and West Indian goods, and of wheat, wine, and brandy, for the Paris market. The principal manufactures of the city, are silk and woollen goods, and leather. Here occurred the wonderful events that illustrate the name of the Maid of Orleans. A monument, erected to her memory, occupies one of the public squares in this city, and bears an enthusiastic inscription.

Between Orleans and Blois, a distance of forty miles, the country is elevated and level. Occasionally, a beautiful view of the Loire, gemmed by its numerous islands, was displayed. The whole region was a continuous vineyard, whence le- gions of peasantry, old and young, male and female, were issu- ing, bearing their delicious burthens.

Blois is a celebrated and venerable city, standing on both banks of the Loire. It was then extensively engaged in the silk manufacture, and the exportation to Nantes of wines and brandies. In the evening the city was brilliantly illuminated

96 MEN" AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION;

on account of the capture of Grenada by Count D'Estaing_ Whilst detained at the door of the post-house, my interpreter dropped a hint to some of the bystanders, that I was a young "Bostone," just arrived from North America. In afew mo- ments I was surrounded by a crowd, gazing at me with great interest. So strong and universal was the feeling in France, ex. cited by our Revolution. Some young women brought baskets loaded with delicious fruit, which they pressed upon me. After remaining at Blois p^rt of the evening, to witness the illumi- nation, we started by a bright moonlight, and in conformity to general custom, determined to travel all night. In addition to the fruit the kind girls had supplied us, we provided a few stores, and entered on the famous causeway (levee). We gal- loped the whole night along this wonderful artificial road, which is elevated from fifteen to thirty feet above the level of the adja- cent meadows and river. It is designed for two carriages to go abreast, and extends one hundred and fifty miles parallel to the Loire, and on its very banks. On our right, we could see, by the bright moonlight, a valley of from a half to two miles wide, bounded by a range of undulating hills, their sides bespangled with lights from the cottages, and cultivated with wheat and interspersed with vineyards. The valleys are devoted to flax, hemp, and meadows.

Nothing could be more delightful than this journeying by moonlight, in a serene night. It was far more interesting than by day, although we were deprived of a view of distant objects. A large glass in front of our carriage, and two side glasses, afforded every convenience for observation. We often saw whole fleets of loaded shallops, with their broad sails, ascending the river before a light breeze, and half concealed by the mist. The moon, at the same time, shedding its quivering light on the surface of the river, the exhalations on the land obscuring our prospect, and rendering the objects indistinct, produced a pleasing and complicated scenery.

About six miles from the large city of Tours, I was surprised to see smoke issuing from the tops and sides of a chain of rocky hills, running parallel to the road, and people issuing

OR, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSON. 97

from doors at their base. Curiosity impelled me to stop and examine the mystery. We were conducted into the body of the hills, in several places, and found many apartments hand- somely furnished, and in one instance, a church hewn out of the soft freestone. In some places we noticed rooms cut out of the hard rock. We were informed the excavations extended seven miles. Popular tradition ascribes this stupendous work to the Romans, who, it is supposed, constructed it as a depot and a refuge, if required. We remained at Tours only to pro- vide a relay, and hurried along vine-clad hills, through villages, and in sight of venerable fortresses, ancient towns, and noble- men's seats, to Angers. There I found several gentlemen from Boston, acquiring the French language, and moving in the best circles. I reached Nantes on the 28th of September, and delivered my dispatches on board the " Mercury," which had been detained for them.

I determined to establish, in that city, a mercantile house, although sustained by few advantages, either of connection or capital, and almost ignorant of the French language. I invested the iunds which had been intrusted to me in goods, and pur- chased an equal amount on my own credit, and was fortunate. The result was propitious. 1 also transmitted circulars to all the ports in America, in which I had formed personal acquaint- ances. Thus commenced my commercial career, which, in three years, enabled me to rear up an establishment equal to any in the city for respectability, and known throughout Ame- rica and in Europe for the extent of our operations.

98 MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION;

CHAPTER X.

Ancinis — Invasion of England — Importance of th6 American Revolution — Wedding — Wooden Shoes — Peasantry— /Dancing — Degradation ol the People — Effects of the Revolution— 'JVIusical taste — Taking the Veil — Letter from John Adams — Count D'Artois — Regal Hunt- ing— Royal Privileges.

I DETERMINED, Oil a recovcry from a severe sickness, in which, for many days, I had trembled upon the verge of eter- nity, to devote the winter to the study of the language, and for that purpose connected myself with the college at Ancinis, twenty-four miles from Nantes. My letters gave me intimate access to the first society of the city, and in consequence afforded me an excellent opportunity of becoming acquainted with the manners and customs of the people.

I arrived at the college late in the night, and retired to my room, without even having an interview with the President* At an early hour, a professor entered my apartments, and com- menced his first lesson in French. I was then conducted to the Refectory, where we had an excellent breakfast on bread and butter, white wine, meat, and onions. I was placed next the officers. They all crossed themselves, and regarded me, doubtless, as a forlorn heretic. The professors and students were unremitting in their efforts to promote my progress and comfort. In a few weeks I found myself rapidly advancing in the attainment of the language. A room, board, tuition, and wash- ing, were supplied me at an annual charge only of about $150.

On my first arrival in France, the public mind was highly elated by the belief that a combined French and Spanish fleet of seventy-six sail, under D'Orvillier, was blockading the Brit- ish fleet in Plymouth, and that sixty thousand troops had as- sembled in the vicinity of Havre, to co-operate with the fleet in the invasion of England. Under all these favorable aspects,

OR, MEMOIRS OF ELKANAH WATSON. 99

no one doubted but that the British fleet, at least, would be an- nihilated. But, alas ! the Ardent, of sixty- four guns, was captured, and the combined fleet returned into Brest, with eight thousand of their crews sick. 1 confess my spirit of retal- iation was gratified, in noticing in the English papers, accounts of the alarm excited by these movements on the coast of Eng- land, and of the inhabitants seeking securit}'^ in the interior. Such spectacles of distress I had often witnessed in America, when the people were fleeing from the violence and cruelty of England's hireling armies. I formerly supposed that we at- tached too much importance to our revolution, in considering it the cause of man, and that it was preparing an asylum for the oppressed and persecuted of all nations ; but the more I re- flect, and the more I regard the opinions of older heads, the stronger my conviction becomes of the truth of this solemn and animating thought.

For two centuries, an ineffectual struggle has been main- tained, to fasten upon some corner of Europe the principles of liberty, but the bayonets of a million of mercenaries have se- cured the thrones of European despots. Freedom, established and maintained in America, in a more liberal age, may diffuse her influence over Europe.

England has fairly rocked us out of her cradle, a sleeping infant ; she may soon find us an armed giant. Should I live to the age prescribed to man, I have no doubt but I shall wit- ness America standing in the first rank among the nations of the earth. Many of my countrymen dread the magnitude of the debt, the price of our independence. When, however, we cast our eyes upon the vast regions of the exuberant interior, that debt will dwindle into a shadow, compared with the avails of the miUions of fertile acres, which have never yet been dis- turbed by a plough.

I accompanied our good Abbe to witness a country wedding. We entered the cottage at the verge of evening, and found the wooden-shoe gentry collected, and merrily dancing, and singing as a substitute for liie violin, with light hearts and heavy heels. The Abbe and myself soon figured in the dan-

100 MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION;

cing circle, composed of old and young, indiscriminately mixed. Madam bride in her sabots, or wooden shoes, was only dis- tinguished by a boquet, which her swain, in great gallantry, placed over her heart. Their manner of dancing is much like that of the Indians of America, but more animated. We stamped around, hand-and-hand, all singing a dancing tune, advancing and retiring, and at the close of every cadence, giv- ing a general yell, their wooden shoes clattering the while in concert.

After the dancing I was surrounded by the whole group, when they heard I was a " Boston^," but they were greatly astonished, that although I had a head and tongue like their own, I could not talk French. The bridegroom led the bride through the crowd, and introduced her with " viola ma femme." I gave her a hearty American smack, which excited a shout of merriment from all, at finding, although dumb, I was not in- sensible, and they soon learned that in the discussion of their rustic viands, I could play a game of the knife and fork with the best of them. We remained dancing and laughing until midnight, as much amused as if I had spent the night in a " bon ton" circle at Versailles. Indeed, while dancing, I could not refrain from the mental inquiry — are not these humble and illit- erate peasants to be envied rather than pitied ? Philosophy would not hesitate to decide. If happiness depends upon free- ness from care and buoyancy of heart, the French peasantry have the advantage of every other race. Ambition they have none ; they aspire to nothing but what they possess. Their cottage, their wives and children, black bread, and the "petite vin du pays."

The ignorance and degradation of the peasants of France, deprived of the rights of freehold property, shut out from rank in the army and navy, living on the coarsest fare, and the mere slaves of a proud noblesse and corrupt clergy, must strike every liberal mind as the worst political feature of the in- stitutions of France.*

* (1821.) Since that day, a revolution has passed over France, like a deluge of blood and woe, directed by the destroying angel, involving in one common

OR, MEMOIRS OF ELKAXAH WATSON". 101

I have frequently observed, in private genteel circles, some one of the gentlemen playing on the violin, to a dancing circle, himself being one of the dancers ; but I was truly delighted to see, at Chateuse, near Ancinis, an elegant young lady take up a violin and play to admiration, whilst she performed most gracefully in the dance. Almost every Frenchman is an adept at some musical instrument.

In my wanderings about the country, a friend conducted me on one occasion to the cottage of a peasant, who supported a family of seven persons, on his wages of only twelve sous (equal to twelve cents) per diem, and paid to his majesty twenty livres (f 4) a year. They subsist on black bread and vegetables, and in carnival, once a year, enjoy a small portion of meat. Yet content and happiness marked the features of all.

Whilst at Ancinis I witnessed the ceremony of taking the veil. The process, and my own feelings in witnessing it, will be exhibited in the following extract from a letter written at the time, to my sister in America : —

" I was an eye-witness to a very solemn ceremony at the Convent yesterday — the admission of a nun. I was admitted into the Chapel, with many spectators, the parents and brothers of the girl among the number. In an adjoining gloomy, dark room, with a heavy arch, I saw through ponderous gratings, forty-three nuns, ranged in lines, each holding a lighted torch, and singing an anthem, that echoed through the vaulted rooms.

"After prayer, mass, &;c., a new pupil — a fresh, beautiful young lady — came into the same apartment with the nuns, dressed in the most gaudy, fashionable style. The grathig then rolled away by some invisible machinery, and the young lady was interrogated by a

ruin the Royal family, the Noblesse, and the Clergy. The dynasty of the Bour- bons has been again imposed on France, by foreign bayonets. Still great good has resulted from the misery and violence of the Revolution. The throne is restrict- ed, the nobility are humbled, the clergy are curtailed in their power and wealth, and the peasantry are elevated in their condition, and secured in their privileges. The light of education, to some extent, is diffu.scd among them ; they can become own- ers of the soil they till, and the liberal professions are opened to them. Who shall pronounce that the bloody ordeal of the Revolution has not left France elevated and improved 1

102 MEN AND TIMES OF THE REVOLUTION ;

priest, if she wished to renounce the world, and devote herself to Christ and the Blessed Virgin. She replied in the affirmative, and instantly disappeared. She soon after re-appeared, disrobed of her worldly habiliments, and dressed in the simple garb of a nun. She then made her solemn vows, and was admitted on probation.

'■• Her sister then presented herself in the dress of a nun, before the awful tribunal, having completed her probationary year, to take the vows for life. It was her choice, and her parents, with a crowd of re- lations, signed their approbation, which was witnessed on the records of the Convent, by myself with others. My God ! is it possible! The unnatural approbation of a father and mother, to the burial of two charming daughters, in this gloomy retreat, is a violation of the laws of God and nature. After the performance of many religious rites, the last extended herself in the midst of the chapel, flat upon her face, and was then covered by two of the nuns, with a black pall, as if abso lutely dead. In this position she remained half an hour, whilst the nuns addressed hymns to the Virgin Mary, recommending the new sister to her beneficence. She was then covered with a black veil, and led to the priest at the grating, where, bathed in tears, she took leave of her parents, and then the grating closed upon her — ' the world forgetting, by the world forgot.' I found my sensibility se- verely tried, by this affecting and novel scene. In a word, I was most solemnly amused. A deep silence succeeded the ceremony, like the stillness of the grave."

I addressed a letter, while in Ancinis, to John Adams, at Paris, who had returned from America, requesting his advice and direction, in regard to my movements and course whilst in Europe. ^ I soon received a reply, which is subjoined, which was the commencement of a long series of confidential intercourse, both personal and by letter, extending over a period of more than half a century, marked, on his part, with the warmest kindness and cordiality, and on mine, by the deepest venera- tion for his character and devoted patriotism.

" Paris, Hotel de Valois, Pue de Pichelieu,

" April SOlh, 1780. " Sir :—

"Your letter of the 16th ;^farch I received yesterday. Your family I know well to be one of the most respectable in the county of Plymouth. Your father I had the honor to know well.

OR, MEMOIES OF ELKANAH WATSOIT, 103

I know, too, that in ancient tinaes (for I must speak to you like an old man) when the friends to the American cause were not so nu- merous, nor so determined as they are now, we always found your father firm and consistent as a friend to his country. This I knew for more than ten years before the war commenced, and, therefore, I have no difficulty in believing that he has been, since that period, uniformly strenuous in support of Independence.

"You tell me. Sir, you wish to cultivate your manners before you begin your travels, and since you have had so much confidence in me, as to write me on this occasion, permit me to take the liberty of ad- vising you to cultivate the manners of your own country, not those of Europe. I don't mean by this, that you should put on a long face, never dance with the ladies, go to a play, or take a game of cards. But you may depend upon this, the more decisively you adhere to a manly simplicity in your dress, equipage and behavior, the more you will devote yourself to business and study , and the less to dissipation and pleasure — the more you will recommend yourself to every man and woman in this country, whose friendship and acquaintance is worth your gaining or wishing. There is an urbanity, without ostenta- tion or extravagance, which will succeed everywhere, and at all times.

" You will excuse this freedom, on account of miy friendship for your father, and consequently for you, and because I know that some young gentlemen have come to Europe with different sentiments, and consequently injured the character of their country at home and abroad.

" All Europe knows that it was American manners which have pro- duced such great effects in that young and tender country. I shall be happy to meet you in Paris, and receive any intelligence from America.

" I am, &c.,

"JOHN ADAMS. " Mr. Elkanah Watson, Ancinis."

In September, 1780, I accompanied my former ship captain, Sampson, to Paris, by the road I travelled on a former occasion. We noticed near Paris a novel mode of hunting. The Count D'Artois, with several royal bloods, we saw riding leisurely along, upon the neighboring hills, whilst a concourse of people were tracing the woods, and a line of soldiers firing away with as much industry as if in pursuit of an enemy in ambush, in-

104: MEN AND TIMES OP THE REVOLUTION;

stead of shooting hares and partridges, starting up on every side. I observed formerly, that partridges were almost as tame as domestic fowls in the vicinity of Paris. The galleys are the doom of any, except those of the blood royal, who shoots one, even on the highway. Blessed America ! there we know no nobles but the nobles of nature.

OR, ME^rOIES OF ELKAISTAH WATSON. 105

CHAPTER \l.

Rennes — Moreau — Customs — Fashionable Dinner— Tom Paine — Contest with a Priest — Louis Littlepage — Journey to Paris — Country Cure — Monks of La Trappe — Mrs. Wright — Franklin's Head — Anecdotes,

The winter of 1780-81 I passed in the city of Rennes, per- fecting myself in my French. It contained a population of about sixty thousand. As I was the first American who had visited Rennes, the popular curiosity to see me was inconceiv- able, and I was subsequently assured, by the most intelligent and refined circles, that they had difficulty in detaching the idea of a savage from a North American. I had repeatedly noticed the prevalence of this ignorance in France, of the con- dition of America, and the character of Americans. When I went to Ancinis, I arrived at the College at night, and retired to my room without having an interview with the officers, Eai'ly in the morning, many of the students entered my room, and supposing me asleep, cautiously, one after another, ap- proached my bed, and drawing aside the curtain, gazed at me. I afterwards understood, that hearing an American had arrived at the College, an impression at once prevailed that I was an American Indian, The lady of the Procureur of Rennes frankly said to me, that she was greatly surprised when I was introduced to her, as slie had supposed the North. Americans to be " une espece du sauvage,"

Rennes was the capital of Brittany, and the seat of the Pro- vincial Parliament. Brittany having been united by treaty to France, retained higher privileges, guaranteed in its cession, than any other province of France. The Parliament was elected by the people, and had alone the power of levying taxes. The King made his requisition, which may, or may not have been registered by the Parliament. Brittany was exempt from a duty on salt, which was a most oppressive burthen in the adjacent provinces.

106 MEN AND TIMES OF THE EEVOLUTION ;

The Loire divides Poitou from Brittany. A man convicted of smuggling the smallest quantity of salt across the river, was doomed to the galleys for life.

I frequently listened Jo the debate in the Parliament, and was astonished to hear with what freedom the Representatives discussed subjects of politics.

I was on familiar terms, at Rennes, with several young gen-